Installing Stone Flooring - Comments
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Hi Marie, Yes, it is! What you need to use is a high-sheen or glossy sealer or finish. AquaMix has a wonderful line of products of sandstone flooring. The biggest thing to worry about is making sure that whatever product you use next that it will be compatible with the sealer you've already applied. Have the info for the sealer you've used readily available and give AquaMix a call - you don't want to mix products that aren't chemically compatible or it'll ruin your finish, give you an ugly finish and possibly damage your flooring. There's a toll-free number at the website.
The Flooring Lady at November 13, 2008 07:35 AM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at November 13, 2008 07:35 AMI would like to apply flagstone to the wooden entry steps to my house. The wood is 2" x 12" and the steps are about 5 1/2" deep with space left to equalize the risers at the top step onto the Hardie plank porch. Should I use a sub flooring like Hardie backer or would mesh and mortor do the trick? Thanks
KAAREN at November 14, 2008 01:47 PM
Posted by: KAAREN at November 14, 2008 01:47 PMHi Karen, I suppose it would depend on how much reinforcement the steps already have under the wood. Sounds like they're pretty sturdy already though and I would tend to think that you'd do ok with the hardbacker (hardie backer).
The Flooring Lady at November 15, 2008 07:41 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at November 15, 2008 07:41 PMHi :),
We just started installing polished stones in our entry way. however, the color does not look as shiny as what we saw in the store and I am starting to think that they gave us a non polished stone!!! how can i tell it is polished and do you think enhancing and sealing it would help?
thank you so much,any ideas would help.......
Sam at November 27, 2008 04:18 PM
Posted by: Sam at November 27, 2008 04:18 PMHi Sam, Enhancing and sealing may help, though if it's pre-sealed you will have to strip them first and if they're not sealed, they really should be before you install them to make it easier to remove grout residue.
I would suggest taking one of your tiles to where you bought them from and comparing them. I can't tell if they're really polished or not since I'm not there. If you aren't happy with what you received vs. the store display, then by all means raise a ruckus with them!
Good products for your stone can be found at bioshieldpaint.com - good luck!
The Flooring Lady at November 30, 2008 06:30 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at November 30, 2008 06:30 PMThank you so much for letting me know what I need to do to seal my floors. I did by a product that is called pre-grout sealer. on the box is say to apply if before putting grout and I showed the product to my installers and they said it is not necessary to do that since grout will fill all the holes on the stone and that is what it is for. I am in a cross road. should i pre seal or not? I can not tell if they were pre sealed and am not sure how to remove the seal after grout and reseal again!!! thanks
sam at December 3, 2008 12:08 PM
Posted by: sam at December 3, 2008 12:08 PMSam, what kind of stone flooring do you have? Some types of stone have little low spaces that can be filled in with grout and then sealed, but this is usually done by the manufacturer. I've also heard of a lot of people complain about the little pieces of grout popping out, most likely due to expansion/contraction, which normally isn't a problem, but like I've stated, I have heard of it here on this site.
Basically, if it's pre-sealed, you shouldn't have any problems. Easiest way to determine this is to put a few drops of water on the stone. If the stone absorbs the water, then it's not sealed.
If you have natural imperfections (little dips, pits, etc.) in your stone and this is what you like, then your installer really shouldn't get the grout in it and then seal if the tile isn't already pre-sealed. Make sure he does a thorough job of removing any grout residue so you don't get any white grout haze, which wouldn't be noticed until he seals the floor. The only remedy for this is to strip and reseal. Good luck!
The Flooring Lady at December 4, 2008 08:57 AM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at December 4, 2008 08:57 AMGood Day!
I was thinking of using some beautiful but thick stone (1 to 1 1/2 inch thick stone on an existing patio that has a concrete base now. Is this stone to big and if not how much grout foundation do I need to put down to hold these stones in place. The area is around 300 sq feet.
Thanks so much
john at December 27, 2008 07:07 AM
Posted by: john at December 27, 2008 07:07 AMHi John, You might want to try to find some sort of patio or outdoor landscaping type site to ask this question. I should think that the stones are fine, but wouldn't have a clue as to what would be proper to set them in outside. You'd definitely need something heavier than a thin set mortar. Sorry for a lame answer, but this site is for flooring within a home - though on ocassion we can help with patio situations where the flooring has already been laid - like help with cleaning and such.
The Flooring Lady at December 27, 2008 12:52 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at December 27, 2008 12:52 PM
Hello,
I am planning to floor my bathroom myself and I have 3/4" thick subfloor. It is an old house with original hardwood in the hall that meets the bathroom floor(linoleum). I bought 1/2" backerboard as a (novice) thinking I would apply it to the subfloor. The problem is if I put the mortar, backerboard, and tile on the floor, I am going to have quite an incline between the bathroom and the hall. Even if I take out the subfloor and put the 5/8" subfloor and use 1/4" backerboard...with the tile I will still have an incline. Do you have any suggestions for a smooth transition from tile to the hardwood?
Cindy at March 1, 2009 09:04 AM
Posted by: Cindy at March 1, 2009 09:04 AMComment Page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5
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