Installing Stone Flooring - Comments
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Hi Cindy, What you'll need is a transition strip where the bathroom and hallway flooring meet. As far as an getting them both to be the same height -- isn't going to happen.
The Flooring Lady at March 1, 2009 01:03 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at March 1, 2009 01:03 PMHello, I am going to be installing flag stone at the front entrance of the inside of my house, a section that is about 6’ by 6’. The rest of the room has ¾” thick walnut flooring that I have installed about two months ago. I have planed to have a smooth transition between the stone and wood, and to achieve this I have installed the appropriate thickness of underlayment beneath the hardwood. My question to you is: can I but the stone directly against the hardwood, or do I need to leave a gap to allow for wood expansion and contraction? If a gap is require, what are my options?
Thank you Gary
Gary at March 27, 2009 10:53 AM
Posted by: Gary at March 27, 2009 10:53 AMHi Gary, It should be ok to butt them up, and I say this based on the assumption that this area will be pretty much climate controlled and that the walnut flooring is nailed. Most people prefer to use a transition strip as it protects the edges where the two different flooring types meet. You're most likely going to have an issue with dirt/dust getting trapped where the two floors meet without a t-strip no matter how close you can get the two flooring types.
The Flooring Lady at March 27, 2009 08:47 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at March 27, 2009 08:47 PMHello, I'm thinking of putting irregular flagstone in an addittion. I used TJI's 14 7/8 1' on center and 3/4" MDF T&G for flooring. I'm going to have the stone cut between 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch. It's about 900sq. total. Would it be better to use a cement backer board like hardybacker or 30lb felt and wire mesh.
Thanks Matt
Matt at May 6, 2009 09:07 AM
Posted by: Matt at May 6, 2009 09:07 AMHi Matt, It sounds like you did a very good job on making a very stable base. It sounds like it would be strong enough that you can use hardybacker under it rather than having to use the felt/wire mesh.
The Flooring Lady at May 7, 2009 09:04 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at May 7, 2009 09:04 PMI am going to lay a 900 sq ft. living room floor (new construction) of natural stone 3/4" to 1 1/2" thick stones. The base is a solid concrete slab. would you lay the stone directly on the slab, and what mortar mix is appropriate and how thick. I have done lots of rock laying but no flagstone before. Thanks, Wayne
WAYNE at May 14, 2009 07:37 AM
Posted by: WAYNE at May 14, 2009 07:37 AMHi Wayne, You'd want at least a medium set mortar for laying it. I would recommend using natural stone that is more uniform in thickness though.
The Flooring Lady at May 14, 2009 10:48 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at May 14, 2009 10:48 PMHello. I am planning to install natural stone on a 8'h x 7'w painted brick fireplace wall. What would be the process since the brick is painted?
~Mike
Mike at May 23, 2009 02:18 AM
Posted by: Mike at May 23, 2009 02:18 AMHi Mike, For best adhesion, I would recommend stripping the paint off of the brick.
The Flooring Lady at May 25, 2009 12:47 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at May 25, 2009 12:47 PM
Hi, this is going to sound awful, but have a section of flagstone floor that really is past its best, so wish to lift, use the better pieces elsewhere in the house, but concrete the section that is coming up and then tile. The existing base is just sand. Any ideas what I should do with this area with regards damp proofing this area? Any info appreciated Jackie
Jackie Strong at June 7, 2009 12:56 PM
Posted by: Jackie Strong at June 7, 2009 12:56 PMComment Page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5
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