Vapor Barrier Paint - Comments
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hi, i am interested in putting down traffic master's allure vinyl planks in a new basement. i live next door now and that basement is dry. i am installing a dehimidifier just in case. i understand the planks have a tape edge and they free float (no glue necessary). my question is re: proofing the basement floor. i would like to do so but do not want to spend for their basement proof. it was recommended that any proof will do. Might you recommend a close comparison to Traffic master's basement proof at a more reasonable homedepot $??? thank you
marianne at February 12, 2008 03:49 PM
Posted by: marianne at February 12, 2008 03:49 PMI haven't had any experience with this kind of product before. So I don't know of any alternatives. Good luck.
The Flooring Lady at February 14, 2008 04:34 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at February 14, 2008 04:34 PMHi. I am interested in installing an inexpensive wood floor in my small basement apartment. The floor is tiled in linoleum and is too cold and hard. It doesn't have a moisture problem, but it's just uncomfortable. I would like to raise the wood flooring just a bit, so that it has some "life" to it, a little more spring than the concrete directly. My question is, am I crazy? Can this be done easily? I imagine just laying down some intermittent supports (maybe 1x1's?) crosswise to the floorboards, without nailing them down. Please advise me!
janine at March 17, 2008 03:15 PM
Posted by: janine at March 17, 2008 03:15 PMThere are two things you can do to improve the feeling of your floor. You could lay a cork underlayment before installing the wood flooring. The cork will add some insulation so the wood floor won't be quite as cold or hard -- and it adds a touch of bounce to the flooring.
You can also check out some flooring systems designed for basements and concrete floors. I have several articles on moisture proofing your flooring on the site.
The Flooring Lady at March 17, 2008 06:48 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at March 17, 2008 06:48 PMWe have an old house with a concrete slab that apparently has either no water barrier layer or one that has been breeched, as we now have a small amount of rising damp. Would installing this kind of paint on the flooring be useful or might we be better off putting a damp-proof plastic on the concrete and pouring new floors over it?
I'm also concerned about the breathability of the house with internal sealants like this. What's your opinion on that?
Thanks!
Sabrina at May 5, 2008 01:41 PM
Posted by: Sabrina at May 5, 2008 01:41 PMHi Sabrina, What is your definition of "rising damp"? Do you mean mean that moisture is somehow literally rising up and making the concrete feel damp, or do you actually have a small amount of water seeping in?
I'm not sure if you're implying that your house is tight and you doesn't want to poison the air, or if you just recognize the issues of what some finishes will do to the air quality. If you choose low VOC finishes air quality won't be damaged, or at least not much.
Have you looked over the articles on on moisture proofing yet? They might help you decide what you'd like to do. I can help more if I know exactly what extent of a moisture problem you have.
The Flooring Lady at May 6, 2008 09:06 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at May 6, 2008 09:06 PM'm doing a radical renovation spec. house and built a passive solar room with a 6" concrete slab floor over 2" of styrofoam. I failed to put a vapor barrier under the styrofoam, and the inspector wants me to install a vapor barrier before the slate / tile floor. All the existing concrete floors likely have no vapor barrier, but I'm getting nailed on my addition. The Schluter DITRA underlayment has a vapor barrier, but it defeats the very effective heat sink I've created in the insulated concrete floor. Is there a paint that will act as a vapor barrier that I can install a slate /tile floor over? FYI The slab is about 10 inches above grade with about 4 inches of compacted gravel as a base. I need to give my engineer some instructions to add to my plans. Got any ideas? Thanks Chris in St. Louis
Chris Vatterott at May 21, 2008 08:47 PM
Posted by: Chris Vatterott at May 21, 2008 08:47 PMCould you further explain why you're being asked to put a vapor barrier down? You might want to read the articles I mentioned in the previous post (the underlined link). I hope some of those ideas help out.
The Flooring Lady at May 22, 2008 09:34 PM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at May 22, 2008 09:34 PMWe have a previously installed ceramic floor in our basement that is damp virtually all summer. Also, although our garage has floor drains, there is also seepage through the floor. We can't pull up the entire 1000 sq ft floor, but we have to get rid of the seepage. We are looking at ways to drain water away from the house, but need a plan to waterproof the ceramic floors.
JES at July 10, 2008 09:54 PM
Posted by: JES at July 10, 2008 09:54 PM
French drains around your house will go a long way to rid you of your moisture problems. A sump pump may be called for too, if the water table is really as high as it sounds it is.
The waterproofing your are contemplating (painting the tiles) may keep moisture out of the house, but it won't keep it out of the tiles. To preserve your flooring you need to first remove the water source and then put a layer down between the concrete and flooring.
You have a big project ahead of you, but it's important to do correctly and well so you don't endanger your health with mold and poor air quality.
The Flooring Lady at July 11, 2008 09:47 AM
Posted by: The Flooring Lady at July 11, 2008 09:47 AMComment Page: 1 | 2
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