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Installing Cork Flooring

Installing cork flooring is easy, whether you are installing cork tiles or panels. Carefully read about cork flooring installing guidelines with each manufacturer you consider to catch the subtleties that may exist. There may be issues around installing cork floors in bathrooms, on radiant floors, and in dry climates. Installing cork flooring tiles requires glue while installing floating cork flooring doesn't so that the floor can move freely -- float -- across the floor with expansion and contraction.

The natural characteristics of cork means that when installing cork flooring, the variations in shade and pattern that make cork so unique and beautiful must be taken into account. Cork tiles should be shuffled prior to installation to ensure a more evenly balanced coloring on the floor.

The tendency of cork to expand and contract with humidity changes can be minimized by installing floating cork flooring, and by stabilizing the temperature and humidity in your house. Even so, installing cork floors in bathrooms or other areas with high moisture content should be avoided. However, if your choose to install cork flooring in a bathroom, the perimeter of the room should be caulked prior to installing the baseboards to avoid moisture penetration (or you can calk around the baseboards for the same reason).

To further minimize the impact of variables in the climate, the cork flooring must acclimate for 3-4 days prior to installation. To do this, simply remove the cork tile from its packaging and leave in the room where the floor will be installed. The room temperature should be between 60F and 70F with normal levels of humidity. If you live in a particularly dry climate, let the cork acclimate for several weeks to make sure it has dried and contracted as much as it's likely to so that you don't get shrinkage once it's installed.

Generally, cork can be installed over any sub-floor as long as it is smooth, level, clean, and dry. That means that any old paint, wax, grease, polish, and old adhesive must be removed to ensure a good bond.
   

  • For installation over existing wood floors, scrub with tri-sodium phosphate after using a paint or varnish remover. In extreme cases, the floor should be sanded, and then washed, rinsed, and allowed to dry.

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  • For concrete sub-flooring, make sure the concrete is level using a latex fill or leveler. Then the cement should be primed using a concreted primer or for higher-moisture rooms, covered with polyethylene sheets as a moisture barrier.

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  • To install on existing vinyl or other smooth surfaces, ensure the old floor is in good condition and rough up the smooth surface to ensure a good adhesive bond.

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  • Cork floors do not seem to adversely affect radiant-heat systems as long as a "vapor barrier" is laid down between the sub-floor and the cork. However, check with the manufacturer to ensure compatibility and for recommendations for maintenance.

  • Once the sub-floor is ready, layout your cork tiles, making sure that the color and pattern variations are scattered throughout your room. Before applying your water-based contact cement adhesive to the perimeter of the room using a paint brush, chalk your lines onto the sub-floor. Then, using a paint roller to apply the adhesive to the rest of the floor, paint directly over the chalk lines because the adhesive will dry clear. Allow to completely dry for about an hour until tacky before laying the cork tile.

    Starting in one corner, align the first tile to the chalk line and the next tile tight to the edge of the first. The remaining tiles can be laid in the same fashion and if necessary, can be cut using a sharp utility or linoleum knife. To attain a positive contact between the tile and sub-floor, the tiles must be hit with a mallet or rolled with a standard tile roller four times in each direction.

    Before applying a top coat of urethane or flooring wax to your tiled floor, remove any excess adhesive from the floor using a damp cloth, if the adhesive is wet, and mineral spirits if the adhesive is dry. Plus, the tiles and seams should be vacuumed and then cleaned with a sponge. Since many of the cork tiles already have finish on them when sold, this final top coat helps protect the adhesive from moisture working its way through the seams.

    If you opt to install a floating floor, be sure to leave a 1/4-1/2 inch gap around the edges of the room, giving room for expansion when temperatures and humidity rise. Some cork floor companies expect you to put an expansion joint at each room change, not just at doorways; be sure to ask before you make your cork purchase what your cork floor company's policy is. Another interesting note is that you see maximum lengths of how much floating cork you lay before inserting an expansion joint; generally that number is much lower than is really necessary.

    Let the finish dry for four hours before walking on the floor with socks and 24 hours before walking on the floor with shoes. Your installation is complete.

    Comments

    I forgot to ask. Did you use flush bull nose or the overlap type for your bullnose on your cork stairs?

    Annie at January 26, 2008 11:21 PM


    Actually my builder created the bullnose for us out of the wood we used for all of our woodwork. It was exquisite. If I were to do it again I'd use what I think you are referring to as the "ovelap" bullnose and what I call the round-nose bullnose. I personally like that look tremendously. Too bad cork doesn't make for a good bullnose because I think that would be the creme de la creme.

    So, are you getting really close now to installing your cork flooring?

    The Flooring Lady at January 27, 2008 12:14 AM


    Getting ready to put it down next week. Have the stairs all sanded, etc. I already finished my living room. I just love cork. I am really excited to see how the stairs will look! I am hesitant to use the round nose bull nose - is it easy to trip over. I have two landings on my stairs and I can not wait to see the cork there with the glow that it has.

    Annie at February 19, 2008 01:14 PM


    I think you'll love your cork too. When I had cork I had a bullnose edge and didn't have any problem with tripping over it.

    What kind of cork are you laying -- the floating tiles or the thin tiles? Seriously consider applying a water-based polyurethane (or whatever product will adhere to the finish your flooring has) to keep it strong and beautiful.

    The Flooring Lady at February 19, 2008 02:13 PM


    I'm using the thin glue down planks. I know to use the poly -

    I'll let you know how it turns out.(fingers crossed)

    Annie at February 20, 2008 04:17 PM


    Great information on this page.

    I'm thinking of laying cork on top of my painted hardwood. The paint is very adhered and I am guessing that stripping it would be a very long process which may not be worth it. From your comments, I understand that the glue down tiles will not adhere on top of the painted wood, so maybe my better choice would be to go for the floating floor type. Do you think my thoughts are on the right track? Thanks

    Anonymous at February 21, 2008 09:57 AM


    I think the glue would ultimately pull the paint from the wood, as you are surmising too. That would indeed leave your choice being the floating floors. How much space are you putting into cork? I'm asking because of expansion joint issues.

    Whatever you do be sure to acclimate the cork for a long time before installing it. And if at all possible, be sure to seal it so you get better durability with the finish.

    The Flooring Lady at February 21, 2008 03:26 PM


    My new floating cork floor looks dull after a light wash. Can I still apply a water based polyurethane? Also, yikes! I see a (new)slight "split" or creasing, not a gap of any kind though where two of my planks were snapped together. If I stand there it disappears - what can I do to perm. fix? Thank you!

    dianna at August 2, 2008 09:04 AM


    Hi Dianna,

    For the moment, I wouldn't do anything to the floor, but I would recommend that you get the salesman and flooring company there immediately and start getting the manufacturer to honor their warranty. It does sound like you have a defective floor.

    Your flooring wasn't made by "Natural Cork" flooring was it? If so, you may want to read this horror story about a new cork floor.

    If you'd like to talk directly, let me know - I'll be glad to email you my phone number.

    The Flooring Lady at August 2, 2008 10:56 AM


    Dianna, I had floating cork floors installed in my new home several years ago and we had separations between tiles. Is your floor buckling at the panel joints? How long did you acclimate the flooring panels before installation? And how did you acclimate them?

    Anonymous at August 2, 2008 11:35 AM


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