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Installing Hardwood Flooring

Learning how to install hardwood flooring is important for a long-lasting floor that won't cause you problems. Your big question right now probably is who is handling installing hardwood flooring in your home or office. Are you installing wood flooring on top of concrete or vinyl flooring, adjacent to carpet, or directly to a plywood or OSB sub-floor? Will you get fancy by installing herringbone hardwood flooring, or stay simple and go in conventional straight lines?

Installing hardwood flooring can be a cinch, or it can be a nightmare, depending on the sub-floor you are working with and the pattern you want to create. Do you do it yourself or hire it done?

There are three general methods installing hardwood flooring in your home.
   1. Floating
   2. Gluing
   3. Nailing

When it comes to choosing the best installation method, your sub-flooring should be taken into consideration to narrow down your installation options. If you have plywood sub-floors you can choose any installation method, but if your sub-floors are concrete, floating or gluing are advised. One trick of having a professional looking job is to start at a focal point, like a fireplace hearth and work from there. Once you establish your starting point, snap a chalk line so you have a straight reference point.

You can install wood flooring on concrete with proper care. Installing hardwood on top of vinyl or linoleum flooring may not take any preparation, other than starting with a clean surface. Installing hardwood flooring to carpet will often require a reducer strip to account for the different thicknesses.

Patterns for wood floor installations can be lots of fun. You could consider installing herringbone hardwood flooring pattern. Or think about a diamond shape. Maybe using different colors of wood can create a pattern like a throw rug with one color of wood acting as the border around the simulated rug. There are so many ways you can create interest with your hardwood floor installation.

Let's look in detail at the different installation methods.

Floating:
The floating method of installing hardwood flooring has become very popular in recent years. Floating is a very stable installation method since it's not attached to the sub-floor. It floats above it, allowing for the natural expansion and contraction of a natural product. Unlike other installation methods where each plank or strip is installed individually directly to the sub-floor, a floating installation involves gluing or clicking the boards together.

This method is very common with engineered and laminate hardwood flooring. Before beginning your floating hardwood floor installation decide if you want an underlayment (made of foam, plastic, or cork) to help insulate noise transmission. If you want that muffling, then the underlayment must be put down first. The wood flooring is then laid on top of the underlayment. The glue used along the edges can be water-based or petroleum-based, and it is applied to the groove of the plank and the boards are then tapped together using what is known as a tapping block. Excess glue is wiped off with a damp cloth. Repeat the process until the room is complete. That's it!

The clicking method (or CLIC) literally involved clicking the tongue and groove edges together for each board you lay. it's faster and cleaner because you don't have to take the step of applying glue, and then wiping excess off the surface.

The floating installation is an excellent do-it-yourself method and someone with little or no experience can get great results.

Glue Down:
You opt for a glue down installation primarily when installing an engineered strip or plank floor over a concrete sub-floor. Glue down installations can be very stable once properly installed. The glue down method can be used with plywood sub-floors, making the wood floor quieter than with either floating or staple down floors because there is less creaking.

Before installing using the glue down method for your wood floor, you need to ensure that your sub-floor is level. If your sub-floor isn't level, you can have serious problems such as popping because of improper bonding due to insufficient contact between the sub-floor and wood plank. If your sub-floor is uneven you will need to use a leveling compound before installation. Once the sub-floor is level, you can proceed with gluing your flooring using the manufacturer's recommended adhesive. As the adhesive dries it shrinks, pulling your wood floor tighter to the sub-floor and giving a stronger attachment.

Installing glue down hardwood flooring on concrete takes care. Make sure the concrete is dry and not wicking moisture from the ground to your wood, causing it to warp. Check the levelness of the concrete and fix areas that aren't level and smooth. Consider an underlayment to help insulate against cold temperatures.

Glue down installations are recommended for those who have experience working with the preparations methods that are described above. Be careful of fumes when working in an enclosed area too.

Nail Down:
Nail down installations are used when installing solid and engineered wood flooring. Solid wood flooring expands and contracts more than engineered and laminate flooring, so take care to acclimate the wood to your home's interior before starting the installation.

Longer pieces should always be placed at entries and doorways if you are working with random lengths and the shorter pieces should be integrated throughout the floor. Nail down installations require that you place spacers around the perimeter of the room to allow the floor to expand and contract. When positioning your boards the groove side should be against the wall. Nails should go through the face of the boards and nails should be long enough to penetrate the sub floor by at least 1 inch.

Nail down installations will require some basic carpentry skills and specialized tools such as a floor nailer, miter and jamb saws. This method of hardwood flooring installation is not recommended as a do-it-yourself project.

Stapling, a variation of Nailing:
Staple installations have become very popular and is mainly used with engineered wood flooring. The staple down method is used over plywood or wood sub-floors. Certain woods may require specific staple sizes to ensure a secure installation; your manufacturer can give you this information.

Staple down installations are recommended for those with a moderate amount of skill using power tools. When stapling hardwood flooring, a special stapler is required. This can be rented from most equipment rental stores

Now that you know the installation methods available, you will be able to choose which is best for your hardwood flooring installation. Will you tackle the project, or hire it done?

Comments

Flooring Lady,

I layed a pine hardwood floor in my living room, it was layed over the original sub floor. the subfloor was level. i have put 4 coats, of polyurethane gloss down, i do have a dog, is that enough coats to protect the floor, or should i do a couple more. do they sell a product to clean hardwood floors, or is there anything that you can suggest. thanks

philip at July 25, 2008 11:40 AM


My husband and I laid cherry hardwood flooring ourselves in our living room. Home Depot suggested a petroleum based adhesive which we used. This was very messy and some has been left on the flooring which we have not been able to get up with mineral spirits and a variety of other methods we have tried. What do you suggest? We are very afraid of taking the finish off the floor. cathy 08/06/08

Cathy at August 6, 2008 04:25 PM


Hi Cathy,

Not knowing exactly which adhesive or flooring product you've used, my suggestion would be to call the manufacturer of the adhesive first to see what they recommend, you could try calling the flooring manufacturer too, but I would think the first option would really be better.

Good luck, I hope you can get it removed without damaging the finish.....

I have to admit, I'm pretty disappointed that somebody at Home Depot steered you to a petroleum product when there are so many other products on the market now that are so much more environmentally friendly - having low or no VOC's.

The Flooring Lady at August 7, 2008 11:14 AM


Flooring Lady, My friends bought a "co-op" apartment, and one room 9x10 had carpeting. They took off the carpeting and found a mix of linoleum tile and big plywood patches (even though it is a small room :-)

The floor seems sound now, but there are seams where there is a drop or rise of 1/8". They were told an engineered floor needs absolutely flat. Do you recommend anything? (They need something that can be done quickly :-)

Thanks

Seth at August 18, 2008 02:56 PM


PS - That's a Dining Room but it might someday be switched back to a bedroom.

Seth at August 18, 2008 02:58 PM


Hi Seth,

I would recommend something along the lines of DurRock Multi-Use self-leveling underlayment. Sounds like a lot of messy work - I wish you luck.

The Flooring Lady at August 18, 2008 08:20 PM


We just bought an older home that has indoor/outdoor or idustrial looking carpet installed over the concrete slab in the kitchen. Can we put a laminate tile or wood over it? It's very flat and has no tears - it's just very ugly.

Dusti at August 22, 2008 06:11 AM


Hi Dusti, I don't think I'd recommend doing that for a couple reasons. It might trap mold/mildew in the carpet (under the new flooring) which could create a health hazard - especially if black mold should develop. You need to find out if the concrete has any moisture issues - moisture does get through concrete from underneath you know. Not only can this lead to mold/mildew between the concrete and your new floor (in the carpet), but the dampness will ruin your new floor.

So, you'll need to discover for yourself if the concrete collects moisture - I'm not talking about puddles of water, just moisture content within the concrete itself. There are kits that can be bought (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) to check this. If there is moisture, you'll need some sort of vapor barrier over the concrete - plastic or sealer you can apply with a brush or roller - before you put down your new floor. You can read more about barriers simply by typing in the words in the search engine located at the upper right hand corner of this page.

The Flooring Lady at August 22, 2008 12:53 PM


have a question. Flooring company is using the hardwood glue as a float on uneven areas is this normal and will it work?

james at August 24, 2008 04:08 PM


I suppose it could work, but I would think it'd be a bit tricky to do and consider that out of the norm........

Why isn't the company using a product to 'self-level' the floor instead of glue?

A friend of mine said that the people who laid one of her floors used glue on the stairs, but it took days for it to dry, even in dry climate. They couldn't step on it for days in order to not disturb the glue while it was drying.

The Flooring Lady at August 25, 2008 10:47 AM


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