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Installing Stone Flooring
Installing stone flooring is a bit more work than other types of flooring because of some of the necessary precautions and prep work, but the results are worth it. Whether you are installing slate flooring or installing marble flooring, you need to be do your homework first. Sandstone, flagstone and travertine flooring take the same preparation. Epoxy stone flooring is a bit of a different beast, and again, do your homework to make sure the application goes smoothly and the results are professional.
When you take into consideration the expense of owning it, installing stone flooring yourself may just seem like the right course of action to take. The problem is, though, that you need the knowledge to back up the will power.
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It is essential that you invest the time and the money in learning how to do it as well as having the right tools. Failure to install stone flooring properly can and will lead to the stone cracking, becoming loose, or becoming uneven which can cause someone to fall and become hurt.
What’s Under There?
Installing stone flooring happens in the same way, whether you are installing slate or marble flooring, or virtually any other type of stone. The pieces of stone are either laid in their natural form or are made from real stone that is suspended in a polymer binder to create a tile like option. In all of these cases, the flooring needs to be laid carefully and accurately. If it is not supported or it is uneven, the finished product will not be that of high quality. And, you are increasing the risks of it breaking or chipping under pressure. No matter how hard the stone is, it can crack if it is laid improperly.
It is important to see what is under your foot when choosing stone flooring for your home. First, you need to take into consideration the weight of the stone. The heavier the stone, the more pressure you are placing on the structure of the building. In some cases, the weight may be too much. If you are concerned about this, it is wise to consult with a professional before making a selection. Often, a thinner layer of the stone tile can be used in place of the heavier options.
Secondly, when installing stone flooring, you need to think about what is directly below it. Because they are heavy and rigid, they need a very strong support system to keep them in place. The base product can not move or shift. Those applying stone on a wood subfloor need to reinforce it with another layer of plywood in some cases. Then a layer of tar paper is laid, followed by a wire mesh. A layer of mortar is then used (although a cement backer board can be used as well) to provide even more support. Then adhesive (the proper quality of course) is used to put the tiles in place.
If installation is to be over a concrete floor, you can use the same such methods or you can use a thin set adhesive.
In most professional projects, the installer is likely to use mortar bed. Also important to note is that in this case, the 3/4" plywood subfloor is the thinnest option.
A cement backer is a good option to use if you are looking for an easy to install solution. The subfloor needs to be 5/8" thick here. You will apply the cement backer board to the subfloor with an adhesive and screws. Your stone is then applied to the backer with thin set adhesive.
In virtually every type of stone flooring you will want to sealants over the top of the flooring. When they are applied before the grouting application, it becomes easier for you to keep the grout out of the cracks and grooves of the actual stone. Once the proper sealants are used, you can then grout the flooring.
There are many types of flooring from epoxy stone flooring to slate, marble, and flagstone. The proper installation of stone flooring will allow for your floor to last as long as possible. In most cases, properly installing stone flooring will allow it to last a lifetime.
Comments
Hi Freddy,
You do indeed need to put good weatherproofing down on the plywood. You could do a "blow down" asphalt-like layer before laying the flagstone on top, or you could use Bitchathane, or some other rubber membrane, as the layer between the plywood and the flagstone.
It sounds lovely. I hope it works out for you.
The Flooring Lady at June 18, 2009 12:50 PM
Hello,
I am having a natural stone (Travertine) installed in the kitchen. Currently I have a "tile" look Linolium on the floor. Is it okay to lay the stone directly over the Linolium or should I have the Linolium removed first? The Linolium is directly on top of concrete. Will the Linolium hinder a proper adhesive seal if not removed or create a better water barrier if it remains and place the Travertine on top? FYI: The Travertine is a Tumble Travertine.
Thanks!
ron at September 11, 2009 01:47 PM
Ron,
You sure can lay it right over, IF you are positive the linoleum won't lift, that it has been properly glued down to the concrete without gaps or air bubbles. You would still have to use a thin-set for the new tile so the travertine will adhere properly.
The Flooring Lady at September 14, 2009 11:04 AM
I have made a Flagstone Porch that I have mortered. I'm now looking for either clear epoxy or polyurethane to pour over it. Birmingham stumped.
KC at October 18, 2009 10:24 AM
KC,
I would recommend the water-based Diamond Coat Varathane Polyurethane to apply over it.
The Flooring Lady at October 21, 2009 10:02 AM
We own a mid century home with an original application of flagstone slate for an entry way. We have a couple of flagstone tiles that are loose (each tile is probably about 16"x8" and mostly rectangular in shape). I plan on removing them for repair and reusing. What type of mortar should I use to reset as well as grout (and any other tricks I should know about)?
Thanks!
Greg
Greg at October 25, 2009 07:10 PM
Greg,
Most home centers should have some type of motar repair adhesive you can use to reset a stone or two. If you do use new grout on those two stones, it may not match the rest of the area. Also, to protect the stones, you may need to reseal them.
The Flooring Lady at October 27, 2009 10:02 AM
Hi. I have a cabin that was built in 1860 and the floor is rock which we think was collected from around the property. It is laid tightly over a dirt/clay floor. I have been investigating ways to seal the floor and came across your website. I really don't want to pull all the rocks up in this process, it would be hours and hours of extra work. Is it possible for me to seal the floor with the Diamond Coat Varathane Polyurethane without having cement under the rock? Thanks for any advice you can give. Cynthia
Cynthia Drummond at November 12, 2009 08:09 AM
Cynthia,
In virtually every type of stone flooring you will want to apply sealants over the top of the flooring.
But, I would check with the manufacturer to be sure that any moisture coming through the stone will not harm the sealant.
The Flooring Lady at November 18, 2009 10:37 AM
Hello Floooring Lady, I am installing 3/4" flagstone in an entry way and 1" as floor protection for a woodstove. The stone will be set on a cement backerboard.
1. What is the minimum depth of mortar recommended?
2. Is the best means of application like tile in which the mortar is spread on the backerboard and a final pass is made with a notched trowel?
3. If a notched trowel is used, what size notch would be recommended?
4. Is the grout the same as what is used for tile?
5. Do you have any special techniques to get the best adhesion when setting the stone?
Thanks in advance, Lonnie
Lonnie Crotts at November 20, 2009 03:28 AM
