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Installing Vinyl Flooring
Whether you are using vinyl tile or roll flooring, installing vinyl floors is a matter of patience and planning to execute a beautiful finish.
Installing vinyl floors isn't just a weekend chore, it's an investment in the protection of your home. A little time from you gets a lot of use from your new vinyl flooring.
Vinyl floors can stand up to harsh treatment and conditions without needing anything more than a wipe. The advantages of installing vinyl floors include:
* doesn't take a lot of your time
* materials are inexpensive
Disadvantages to installing vinyl floors can be:
* you'll need basic tools for cutting and measuring
* there is prep work to get the floor ready for installation
* you may need to level the floor
* offgassing from the vinyl and/or adhesive
Vinyl is an incredibly durable form of floor covering. What you do have to take into consideration is the floor's wear layer, which is the surface that stands between someone's sole and the actual vinyl surface. This layer can be worn down with time, especially in locations where dirt is most prone to being ground into the floor, like at the front or back door.
Installing vinyl floor tiles seems to be the way that most homeowners decorate and protect their bathrooms and basement floors. One big decision is, whether you will be laying tile or roll vinyl. And it's quite simple to do.
The preparations needed include selecting a room that isn't too hot and is well-ventilated. Bathrooms are a good example because they have exhaust fans that keep ventilate the space well while you are working and they vent moisture. You will need a clean and dry surface upon which to install the vinyl floor. If you're installing vinyl on top of vinyl, then you just need to clean the area and allow it to dry completely.
If you're installing vinyl tiles on a concrete basement floor, or other concrete surface, you will want to do a simple test. Take a small piece of vinyl tile and attach it to the floor. After seventy-two hours, try to pull the tile up. If the tile comes up without much trouble, the surface is not dry enough for installing vinyl floor tiles. You will need to find a way to remove the moisture; a dehumidifier for a few days may do the trick. It could be a high water table causing the moisture problem, and that fix can be difficult and expensive.
Take careful measurements of the area to assure that you have enough vinyl floor tiles. You may want to purchase more than is necessary to adjust for any mistakes that you may make and to have extras on hand in the event of damage down the road.
One trick to use before you start to lay your vinyl flooring is to turn the heat on to 75 degrees and leave the flooring product (and glue) in that room for 72 hours prior to installation and througout the installation job. That lets both the product and the floor get warm enough that the vinyl is flexible and everything is the same temperature. By having the floor and product the same temperature, they adhere to each other better. After you have finished installation, when you return the heat to your regular setting, the floor and flooring cool together, and as the vinyl shrinks (that's what happens when things cool), it is pulled taught, making an even tighter contact.
When you are installing vinyl floors on top of old vinyl floors, you may need a special leveling paste. This is especially true when you are installing vinyl floor tiles in corners of a bathroom because they tend to "sink" over time. Before you place any tile, fill these areas with the manufacturer’s recommended dry floor filler, allow drying, and then proceed with the installation.
Another thing that you can do to ensure your vinyl floors look great is to carefully remove the floor molding, or baseboards. By removing the molding you allow yourself to place the vinyl close to the wall so that when the baseboards are replaced it looks professionally completed. Or you can replace the baseboards with new material, completing the fresh, new look.
Once the baseboard is removed and the floor prepped, snap a chalk line so you have a straight line to work from, ensuring your vinyl is laid straight. That gives your finished floor a professional look.
Now you are ready to go. If you are using roll vinyl, roll your vinyl across the room. Mark where you will cut off excesse material or cut around intrusions like for toilets, built-in bookcases, or even walls. Using a solid backing board, cut out the pieces you just marked, carefully rolling the vinyl so you can access those spots. You can use either a perimeter or full adhesion technique. If you are. For full adhesion, roll the vinyl up, with the decorative side rolled in. Spread the "glue" across the entire floor, unroll the vinyl, and use a roller to ensure all of the vinyl is pressed to the glue. It's a bit of effort, but nothing you can't handle if you work slowly, carefully and methodically.
Or place your tiles down in the immediate area you are working. Depending on the type of glue-down method you are using, either put adhesive on the floor where the tile will go or peel off the glue-down backing, and put the tile in place. Push firmly. Proceed to the next tile, if you are laying tiles. It's a cinch.
Once the floor is in place and had time to cure, put baseboards in place. The project is done!
For more detailed directions, rely on your flooring manufacturer's directions, or find a do-it-yourself website that gives you step by step directions with pictures.
Installing vinyl flooring doesn't need to be a chore. It's a great way to create a beautiful room. And with all of the advantages, who wouldn't try it as a weekend project as a way of protecting your homes value and usability?
Comments
Interesting concept. I don't have any experience with such an approach and my gut level tells me it's not going to work as well as you'd like because of trying to mix two very different products.
Let us know what you do. And if anyone knows of such a product and approach, please chime in.
The Flooring Lady at February 26, 2008 01:09 PM
THe Home Depot offers groutable vinyl tiles (only a couple of styles) but they go down like normal tiles with spacers and the you grout them. I've not done it yet, but I have seen them and they look and feel great.
Good luck !!!
Tim at March 15, 2008 06:24 PM
when we had our vinyl installed by lowes there were tons of bubbles all over the vinyl and you can see the places where they silt the vinyl to let out the air in the bathroon but the vinyl is still not sticking in both the bathroom and the kitchen what can we do about the bubbles and the slits?
ashley at April 21, 2008 09:05 PM
Ouch. I don't want to imply all big-box stores have less than professional installers, but I have heard several horror stories, yours being one. Without having seen your floor installation my reaction is that Lowes can de-install it because they did a bad job of the installation and of their attempted repair.
Yes, slitting the bubbles can fix the problem, but if you have as many as you say you do, that many slits is bad news! And the bubbles are an indication of a bad installation or a bad vinyl. Either way, I'd get rid of it and start again.
The Flooring Lady at April 22, 2008 01:51 PM
Can I use an extra adhesive to the peel and sitck graoutable vinyl floors to ensure that they don't start to pop up?
Dawn at June 2, 2008 05:59 PM
Hi Dawn, To tell you the truth, I don't know! You can call the manufacturer and ask them.
Feel free to drop back in and let us know what they said.
The Flooring Lady at June 5, 2008 11:17 AM
I'm currently having glue down vinyl tiles installed in my kitchen and all bathrooms. When I looked at them today, (the installers are 30% finished) they looked crooked, the butts didn't meet and I could feel a slope as I walked around the room. I told them that I was not happy and that they should fix it so they took up part of the floor, reapplied some tiles and re-leveled some of the floor. How worried should I be? These same guys are supposed to install my laminate in the living room next week but I won't let them touch it if they do a crappy job on the vinyl. Does it take vinyl a few days to "look right" ? Should they have been using something (like a seam roller) to make sure the ends butt and stay down?
swgirl at July 11, 2008 10:48 PM
I can see why you are concerned, and it seems that your misgivings are well founded so far. The tiles should be rolled for miximum adhesion and the correct type of adhesive needs to be used as well. There is usually a time frame associated with the adhesive for rolling to insure that you get the max adhesion.
The first line of tile laid must be perfectly straight, if it's not it's just going to look crooked throughout the whole room.
The subfloor needs to be smooth as well and clean - something as small as a grain of sand could show up as a small bulge underneath the tile. All joints and holes in the subfloor should be filled with floor patching compound and sanded smooth.
Good luck!
The Flooring Lady at July 12, 2008 11:11 AM
Well, Flooring Lady. After inspecting my vinyl to see they did do a decent job after all(after my two complaints) I decided to allow them to lay the laminate. I watched carefully as they "leveled" (without the use of any leveling tools) the floor. Then they started laying the laminate and it looked great! However, I have noticed that there is one small spot (about 2 ft by 3 ft at the end of a short hallway that was obviously not leveled at all. I know this because I can feel a slant and a dip in the floor while walking on it, and if you watch someone walk on it the boards cave in a bit. It is obvious and can be easily seen with the naked eye. I still owe the flooring guy 30% of his bill. I am trying to decide what to do? I am sure this needs to be fixed but I am unsure that his workers have the skill to do it. Should I ask him to fix it? Withhold an appropriate amount of money and pay someone else to fix it? Do you even think its a real problem? By the way, thank you so much for your previous answer. It was a real help.
swgirl at July 19, 2008 09:53 PM
Hello again and thanks for letting me know how things went!
I do have a question - at the end of the hallway, does it end at a wall or at a doorway? Just asking because if the end of the hallway is an entrance to another room, then they might have had to slope it a little so that the flooring levels where it meets would be the same.
If this isn't the case, then I'd ask the owner about it and tell him of your concerns. Invite the owner over to visit and see for himself as well. And no, it shouldn't visibly 'cave' when somebody walks on that spot.
It probably won't do you any good to withhold payment of the balance, he can always take you to small claims court to recover the rest of it. Of course, you'd get to tell your side too. If you feel you are perfectly justified though.........
Chances are though, if he cares about his reputation, he's going to want to see it and want to make his customer (you!) happy. It shouldn't take much time or money on the owner's part being as how it's such a small area.
The Flooring Lady at July 20, 2008 12:04 AM

