Linoleum Flooring

Hello - I think we have uncovered very old lino floors in our house - as we are on a very tight budget I was interested by your comment about painting it ? What would you suggest painting it with ? is it possible to paint it in an eco-friendly paint - would be a shame to use a non environmentally friendly paint if the floor itself is such an eco choice ..

One reason your old floor is eco-friendly is because it's there and no more resources will be consumed to create it or install it. Keeping it is a great idea, if the floor is in good condition.

Sherwin Williams has an eco-friendly paint that I think would work. The paint itself isn't always the issue but what you seal it with. Clean the floor thoroughly and let it dry completely -- maybe for a few days even -- before painting. Depending on its color and the color you are going with you may want to prime it; your paint store clerk can help you decide that.

A plywood floor I painted once came out well when I used the system of a dual-roller and dual-paint pan system so I could apply two colors at the same time. Most home improvement stores have this system. It's a lot of fun and you can create the look you want easily. I think that could work for you too, especially if you are thinking of a marble-ish looking floor.

Then, when you have the floor painted the way you want apply several coats of Diamond Coat Varathane Urethane formulated for floors. And enjoy!

Hi, I am also getting ready to paint my lino kitchen floor. I know I must lightly sand with to degloss (wet sanding avoids any inhalation of possible asbestos I've heard) I know AFM Safecoat has both an Eco Friendly Primer - should I use Oil based or water based? And then finally I was wondering what type of paint I should use, flat, gloss? And any eco-brands you can recommend. Thank you so much!!!! I'm a bit nervous but I have to go for it while my kid is gone for seven days. Safe coat also has a low VOC polyurathane.

If you have an old linoleum that may have asbestos, be sure to wear a mask as you sand and make sure the residue is cleaned up thoroughly before taking the mask off. But before you sand, see if you can find a product that will degloss the linoleum without roughing up the surface -- that will be safer in regards to asbestos.

I'm all for water-based primers, paints and finishes. Oil based has high VOCs which contaminate your air quality and impact your health. Sherwin Williams has an eco-paint that I like very much.

I have also been quite pleased with water-based Diamond Coat Urethane I have on all of my cabinet. Their floor product should be just as fabulous. The link to them is in this thread.

How can I replace my 1939 linoleum small kitchen countertop (which I like but is damaged) with a new one that is an exact copy? Mine is green and has a yellow border cut into it. (So there was some simple cutting of linoleum involved.)

I don't know that you'll get an exact copy of your present countertop, but you can buy the green and yellow linoleum and find someone to install it for you. Take lots of pictures before so you can remind the installer what it looked like, even though they should remember from the demolition portion of the project.

Oh Dear,

Thankyou for you last reply. I finally just went for it and decided to paint my linoleum kichen floor however during the process I've come across a big problem. After almost three weeks of meticulously cleaning, sanding, painting my kitchen floor ( a beautiful espresso brown) I waited more than three weeks to allow the paint to dry and cure properly before applying the polyurethane, Finally today was the day I have been waiting for to apply the polyurethane and I did so over 3 hours ago and!!!! I can see terrible milky brush marks all over my beautifully painted floor, all over the place! I thought it was supposed to leave it clear and satin smooth. I am beside myself as to what to do next. Will the second and third coat make it look better? Should I sand the blotchy spots and apply more polyurethan on top? By the way we made sure the room tempreture was perfect before starting the polyurethane - we used AQUAZAR Water Based poyurethane - Satin Clear. Help! I've been going crazy without my kitchen and now I just don't know what to do to fix this. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thank you so,so much. Mika

I called my paint store about this for some ideas. Their first reaction was to never paint vinyl flooring (and I couldn't get him to understand there is a difference between vinyl and linoleum). So, are you sure your floor is linoleum and not vinyl?

Once I got him past that issue he said that not all water-based polyurethane's are to be used on just any surface. In fact, he indicated most are to be used directly on wood or as additional coats on themselves. Sherwin Williams does have a water-based polyurethane that can be used on paint. Check your product to see what surfaces it says it can be applied to.

Don't hesitate to call the manufacturer for input. They may have ideas about the problem and therefore a solution. Please let us know what you learn.

I am an artist who paints with oil and am creating a small art room adjacent to my laundry room. Is linoleum a good option for flooring for these two rooms? Can solvents be used to clean any paint drips I may make?

You clearly understand the challenge of using solvents to clean floors. Linoleum is a durable flooring, but it will be abused by the use of solvents on it. I haven't done that, but I can feel confident there will be damage -- I just don't know what the damage will look like. Linoleum color goes throughout the product so you won't have spots with no color, as you might with vinyl.

I'm not sure what your best bet is with your floor options. My sister-in-law has a concrete floor in her art studio so she doesn't have to worry about dropping oil on it. That could be an interesting option for you too.

I am trying to find linoleum to install in my kitchen. I can't find any with any color or design. Do they just make it plain or wood grain? I would love a retro look. Thanks.

I don't mean to sound flippant, but where are you looking? Depending on where you live there are lots of places you can look. A flooring store that caries Forbo (marboleum) or Armstrong (marmorette) will be able to get linoleum for you. I don't know if there are any wood-grain linoleum products but there are lots of great colors and textures available.

Hi
I have 3 or 4 different pieces of very old linoleum up in my attic. Evidently, they were used in the house at one time, then removed and placed up stairs. I don't think they were ever glued down, because of the large pieces. Some are ripped, but I bet all the pieces are there and could be put down almost seamlessly by a professional. I doubt any are room size, but would make interesting floor cloths. One is a child's floor in blue, pink and white with bunnies and other cuddly animals on it. I also have 2 pieces, 1 in ea of my bedroom closets that are not glued down, which I plan to remove and replace with carpeting. I still have some in my up and down stairs hallways that is glued down. Eventually I want cover it with carpet, even though I know there is wood flooring underneath. I ripped up part in my front foyer which is very small, but it was murder to get up! Finally managed to do it and refinish the southern yellow pine floor underneath it. Do you know of anyone that buys ands sells this vintage stuff? I'd like to sell all the loose stuff because I really need the $$$, and someone might find the floors I have just what they've been looking for.

Hi Connie,
I sure don't. You might try using your favorite search engine, maybe you'll at least find out if there's even a market for it. Sounds like some neat stuff if you can just find a buyer - it's definitely better than sending it to a landfill!

I have picked out an Armstrong Marmorette floor for my kitchen. How resistant to scuffing, staining are today's linoleum floors. I have found mixed reviews on the internet from love it to run as fast as you can and do not buy this product.

I think today's linoleum floors are pretty darn great. I had one installed almost 4 years and it has held up wonderfully despite being in a very high traffic area of the house.

A friend of mine has this very same product on her counters - no, I'm not kidding. She didn't wax
it, as Armstrong advised due to concerns of having the wax come in contact with perhaps food, articles used for food, etc. She has a few places that stained when rusted steel sat on it, but it's minor - and keep in mind - it's not waxed or coated with anything. She keeps it looking quite good with no effort. The counters are five years old and going strong.

Scratches don't show on linoleum the way they would with vinyl. On her countertop, you do see them, but who wouldn't when you are 2-3 feet from them, but they aren't glaringly obvious even at close look.

So........ yes, I like today's linoleum

Can I use Armstrong's lenoleum Migrations BBT on my garage floor, light auto traffic.

Thanks, Joe

Armstrong BioBased Tile should work fine I'd think. Accoring to a press release Armstron(tm) MIGRATIONS is ideal for schools, healthcare, mass retail and any other commercial space that requires a long-lasting, good-looking, economical and easy-to-maintain flooring solution.....”

Link to press release is here.

I don't know if it makes a difference to you, but it's also LEED certified.

Which linoleum (if any) is most "green"? Does any flooring off-gas?

Hi Mary,
Believe it or not, that's a rather difficult question! Manufacturer's are jumping on the environmentally friendly bandwagon by leaps and bounds, so much so that it's hard to keep up with who is now the 'greenest'. Best thing to do is visit manufacturer's websites and read. Most manufacturer's seem to tout about how green they have become on their home page.

Most manufacturer's now have products that are low or no VOC (the off-gassing).

Mary, my favorite linoleum is made by Forbo. It's all natural ingredients and has a long track record.

Cool! Thanks Sandy! Well Mary, there's one brand to look into for starters - ALL natural materials too!

I bought a house in 1973 that had pretty homely kitchen countertops. I came to love them. They were molded up along the edge to stop run-off, and they were almost indestructable. When I left there in 2003, they looked exactly the same. I can only guess they were linoleum. Now I have some new and "nicer" countertops and I've already stained them, am constantly trying to make them look good. My old cheap house had better countertops!

Dear Flooring Lady,

I wanted to let you know that there is one place I know of where you can buy and sell old linoleum. That is Secondhand Rose, in New York City, and on the Web at www.secondhandrose.com.

Best regards,
The Grammar Fairy

Dear Flooring Lady,I am building a dental office. I need your advice for type of floor best suited for operatory roomms which will have lot of rolling of dental chairs. How is laminate wood ?. Vinyl needs maintenance of wax and polishing. It should be kind to the feet and appear good. .Please advise
Thanks

Laminiate wood will also need maintenance. I'd suggest epoxy flooring or rubber flooring, even stained concrete for the most durability. Engineered hardwood, laminate wood, ceramic or porcelain tile are also very good options. It doesn't matter what kind of flooring you decide upon - they all require some degree of maintenance.

Hi...need some help, am inheriting my parents home with old (80?) lin floors. Lin in good shape but out of date style. To save costs, I'd like to cover the old lin with new, in a wood look. Have two small dogs, one 12 lbs., one 5. They occasionally have accidents.

Wondering; will lin hold up to dogs? Can I install over old lin? Does the wood plank looking solid sheet lin really look like wood?

Thanks!

Hi there!
It's best to put a new subfloor (meaning the thin board, not thicker plywood) over the old lino first. Yes, there is lino that really does look like wood, complete with realistic wood grain impressions.

Lino is a good choice when you have the occasional animal oopsies, just be sure to clean up the mess as soon as possible since urine is so acidic.

I LOVE YOUR SITE. MY LINOLEUM HAS LOST ALL ITS SHINE. ISN'T THEIR ANYTHING I CAN JUST PAINT ON IT TO MAKE A HIGH GLOSS. I AM SO TIRED OF STRIPPING AND WAXING. THANK YOU SO MUCH

If your floor is stripped, you should be able to some water-based polyurethane on it or even a clear epoxy coat.

my neighbor has a problem with her linoleum flooring coming apart. she has lived in this unit for 12 years now .and the landlord says if he repairs it he will raise her rent to market value which is a 1920 buiding with not market value amenities. when she wanted her unit painted he would only furnace the paint.please help us in how to deal with this person.or at least let us know how to find out our rights not just the basic's in the hand book.

Hi Mark,
I don't know what state you live in, so I can't help with landlord/tenant issues. I would advise doing a google search to find information relevant to your state. Actually, the information you're wanting isn't relevant to this site, this site is to help with flooring issues, not landlord/tenant problems.

Our new mud room is insulated but not heated from the cold northern New England winters. What are the cons of using a high grade linoleum in an 8x10' room where there is no heating? (Others tell us if we use ceramic or porclein tile they could 'pop' because of the cold regardless of insulating the walls.) How will a 1 piece of rolled linoleum react to the cold? How will tile base linoleum will react to the cold? Would you recommend one type of linoleum over the other? Thank You... Sue

Susie,

Using a high grade, single piece of linoleum will be a perfect fit for a mudroom. Linoleum doesn't expand or contract like wood or vinyl flooring.

Laying over tile could present a problem as the grout is almost level with the tiles but not quite. The floor must be completely level so the bond of the adhesive is not broken. You can lay a subfloor, a thin piece of wood, to level the floor or you could use latex primer for underlayment and self leveling underlayment. All of those can be found at your local hardware store and if you follow the directions completely you will do fine.

Take a look at Forbo(marboleum)or Armstrong (marmorette)as both stand behind their products and from my experience hold up well.

HI! Our finished/carpeted basement flooded about 3 weeks ago. We have a french drain and sump (with battery back-up), but our power was out for over a day and we were not home to hook up our gas generator to keep the water out. We immediately removed the carpet and padding and have been letting the concrete dry before sealing it (wish we had done that BEFORE laying carpet!). My question is, how long should we let the concrete dry before applying a sealer?

Jenny,

Hi. Where are you located? One option may be to have a professional in your area assess the moisture level in the concrete. Another option would be to complete your own testing by putting down something like baking soda, flour or sugar and see how they react. If they get wet, then the concrete isn't dry enough yet.

I'M NOT SURE IF I'T LINOLIUM OR CONGOLOIUML. WILL THAT MAKE A DOIFFERENCE ON USING WATER BASED POLYURETHANE OR CLEAR EPOXY COAT. I JUST WAHT A HIGH SHINE BACK. AND I JUST CAN'T KEEP STRIPPING IT AND PUTTING 6 TO 8 COATS OF WAS ON. IT' A KILLER. I HOPE THIS IS MY DREAM COME TRUE. IT SOUNDS TO EASY.I PUT SOME POLYURETHANE ON BUT IT TURNED YELLOW. I'M NOT SURE IF IT WAS WATERBASED. WHY DID IT TURN YELLOW. THANK YOU FOR A WONDERFUL SITE. JODY

Jody,

Are you applying this just for the increased shine?

Polyurethane is not usually water based and does tend to yellow. One water based polyurethane you could try would be Diamond Coat Varathane Polyurethane.

You should also check with the floor's manufacturer before applying a varnish to it.

we had someone lay our linolium floor and put in a sub floor, in a week, we see bubbles and lines in the floor, like the pattern came in sheets or something, what should we do missionkids777@hotmail.com please email me

Melody,

Linoleum will show bumps and lines of anything that is underneath it, more so as it settles and is walked on. If surface was not prepared for the linoleum after the sub-floor was put it, it could cause this. I would recommend calling your installer and having the problem corrected.