Basement Floors

Basement floors can cause a challenge to many homeowners because of the numerous potential problems and issues that affect the flooring choice. Whether you go with cheap durable basement flooring or something elegant, determine if waterproofing basement floors is necessary. Mold and mildew resistant basement flooring options abound. Your choices include laminate flooring, painting your basement floors, linoleum or vinyl flooring over concrete (tiles or rolls), wood, and even tiles. The best basement flooring really depends on you. Our basement flooring recommendations are that you evaluate your basement and your needs, get lots of basement flooring ideas, and proceed.

Do you have a basement that looks like a cave? Changing the flooring in your basement can make your basement look more like a room than a dark, dingy cave. There are lots of basement flooring ideas, all you have dot do is sort through the basement flooring options and make a decision!

What Flooring Option Is Best For Your Basement?

Adding flooring can brighten any room and can create interest and a feeling of being welcome. There are so many flooring options that you can use in the basement to create a room that everyone will love spending time in that the only problem may be trying to decide between the options! Here are some basement flooring recommendations we’ve found through the years and various homes,

Your question, “what is a good flooring for a concrete basement” has many answers, all guided by the basement uses and your needs, your geographic location and basement style. You first need to ask yourself a few questions. What is the basement area going to be used for? Family room? Bedroom or office? A game room perhaps. If it is going to be used for a family room, for example, then you will want to have flooring that is durable and easy to clean. A bedroom or office space does not have to be as easy to clean as a playroom so can handle a different flooring. A game room needs to be durable. Where are you located? In an area with a high water table or tendency for flooding? Is your location dry, leaving you with a water-proof basement? And is the basement subterranean or walk-out? Each basement style will have its own criteria for how the space is going to be used. Determining the use will help you evaluate how much traffic and what kind of activity the room is going to get. Then you can make an informed decision on flooring that will be durable and last for years.

Cracked basement floors may need repairing before you do anything with your do anything further with your basement flooring. Waterproofing the concrete may be important too.


If you need cheap durable basement flooring, you have several different options. You could consider painting basement floors to save money. You could even try a faux finish that will make the concrete or cement look like more expensive stone flooring. Stenciling concrete basement floors can let them look like they have expensive oriental rugs or parquet tiles. Decorating concrete basement floors should not be scary — you never know, your floors could be the envy of the neighborhood! Paint is an easy fix to any decorating problem. And don’t forget that after you paint or stain your floor to take care of sealing the basement floor.

If you are looking for a floor that will turn your basement into a masterpiece, then you may want to consider installing laminate flooring in the basement. Using laminate flooring for basement floors instantly creates a feeling of warmth to a room. Laminate flooring in the basement works great if the basement is a dry space. As long as your concrete or cement basement floor is sealed and free of cracks, you should be able to install most laminate flooring brands.


Another option to think about is basement tile flooring. Tile flooring comes in many different colors and materials and you are sure to find the one that will make your basement look great! From peel and stick tile to ceramic tile, you will find the one that is right for you and your budget. You can go with an all-over color, or design a pattern and lay the tiles to create the design. If you already have tiles on the floor, but they are tired or worn out, you can cover them with carpet, laminate, or maybe even more tiles. Painting tile floors is another interesting option for you.

Prepare Your Basement For New Flooring

Before you choose the flooring for your basement, make sure that you have prepared your floors correctly. Waterproofing basement floors is very important because of their direct contact with the ground and the possibility of ground moisture seeping in. Concrete can act like a sponge and draw water up into the room if it is not sealed. This moisture can not only ruin flooring, but also causes mold or mildew problems. Be sure that your concrete or cement basement flooring and walls are waterproof to protect your basement flooring choice. Consider mold and mildew resistant basement flooring options if you have lots of ground moisture.


Once you decide what the basement is going to be used for and make sure that it is watertight, then you will be ready to choose the flooring. The flooring choice is entirely up to you and your budget. There are many different flooring options for basements now so you should be able to find exactly what you are looking for!

137 thoughts on “Basement Floors

  1. I have an article about sealing basement floors and there is some discussion about sealing stained concrete floors that might have useful information for you. The bottom line is you want to use a sealant that’s specifically formulated for concrete.
    I don’t know if it’s too late for your concrete at this point. It depends on how stained it is, and if you can readily clean it from the stains. The sealant will have directions to help you decide.

  2. You provide great info, thanks. One option that works great for basements is a decorative concrete overlay with area rugs. The concrete has a lot of benefits primarily that they look great but also prohibit mold growth. Area rugs can be rolled up and sent to the cleaner. The problem with wall to wall is that once its down it’s a major project to remove. Carpet glue is a disaster. Carpet does provide warmth but also is very unhealthy. Mold will grow in carpets and will make you sick or worse. It’s gradual. I think you’ll notice that basements with wall to wall carpet get used less frequently as time goes on. Thats because you don’t like the way you feel down there. I guarantee that everyone who has a great basement with wall to wall carpet after a while just don’t use the basement. I know I have my home office in the basement and I can tell the air quality is terrible and I have a dry basement. Though my dehumidifier tells me otherwise.

  3. I have a basement that had water in it after my sump pump failed. I need to replace the flooring. Once the berber carpet was removed I found that half of the basement floor is covered with glue resedue and the other half in old tiles that had been glued down. I have tried removing these tiles with a scraper but they won’t budge. Any suggestions? The flooring I am wanting to put down is the peel and stick tiles. Can I just go over the old tiles? The floor is uneven with half of tiles removed, do I need to remove the rest? If so, how?

  4. Tammy, I hate it when sump pumps fail! And of course they do it an the most inopportune times.
    What kind of tiles are you trying to remove? If they aren’t in bad shape, and haven’t absorbed water so won’t mold, you could leave them down. As long as the existing tiles have a clean, smooth surface, you should be able to successfully apply the new tiles.
    Because you have an uneven surface, maybe you can do something to build up the un-tiled section so the floor is even before applying your new tiles.
    If you don’t know what the old tiles are made of you want to be careful that you aren’t removing asbestos tiles. If you know they aren’t made of asbestos, and you want to remove them, you may be stuck with chipping away. Any glue solvent you try to apply might damage your indoor air quality, and possibly your health.

  5. I am in the process of finishing my basement. My contractor said that I didn’t need to waterproof the cement walls and floors and the blueboard and plastering of the new walls has all been done now. I just noticed that the floor in one of the corners in the basement is a little wet. I never noticed water in the basement before because I had “stuff” against all the walls and piled up for the past 15 years. Someone will be coming out to look at the cement integrity outside and try and fix the problem, but I have a feeling that I’m always going to have dampness. I really want to put a rug down and the contractor said I could put these 2×2 waterproof tiles down before I put the rug down. So my questions are how should I prepare the floors at this point? Will those tiles even work since they won’t be going all the way to the cement wall? Should I not put a rug down at all? Thank you.

  6. Hi Laura,
    Why would your contractor say that you don’t need to waterproof the cement walls and floors? Since you are now seeing water, then obviously something needs to be done. You shouldn’t have a problem with dampness so long as the cement is sealed. You should then be able to install virtually any type of flooring you’d like (be sure to read about the different types of flooring for cement at the site). I don’t usually recommend carpeting, mainly because of problems that can arise with mold, mildew and just because allergens are more difficult to remove from carpeting, but as always, the choice is yours.
    Do you know what type of waterproof tiles your contractor recommended putting on the concrete? I would still think that the cement itself should have to be sealed to prevent any dampness from coming through.

  7. have a basement section – as part of new addition.
    concrete floor … walls have been treated
    there is a large “stress crack” in the middle of floor – so says my contractor – and “not to worry”
    so when I seal the floor (with what) – can i just fill the crack with sealant?

  8. Hi Al,
    How ‘new’ are we talking about? Did the contractor provide any kind of warranty against defects? I’m sure he’d tell you ‘not to worry’ – he doesn’t want to be out time and money to fix it, now does he? If it’s ‘new’ and it’s broke then it should be fixed. You run the risk of moisture problems if he didn’t put a moisture proof barrier down before the concrete was poured.
    Options for fixing it are covered elsewhere on the site. Good luck and feel free to report back on post additional info.

  9. I am considering using an epoxy paint/coating for my basement floor. Do I need to seal the basement floor before or after the paint. Also, will painting or sealing help reduce radon gas? The house is 6 years old.
    Thank you,
    Ramesh

  10. Hi Ramesh!
    You should follow the recommendations of the epoxy manufacturer about any needs of sealing before or after the epoxy coat. If you don’t know, call them or email them.
    If you don’t have a level floor to start with you may want to investigate the option of one of the floor leveling products that are on the market.
    If the epoxy isn’t low VOC be sure to keep the house aired out, especially during the application and curing time so you don’t create air quality problems in your home. There are zero VOC epoxy coatings on the market.
    You may need to prime your floor to get better adhesion if moisture might be an issue, concrete is dusty and ‘weak’, or if the concrete is really polished smooth and doesn’t have much of a surface profile. You’ll need to clean it really well first too.
    Be sure to read https://theflooringlady.com/epoxy_flooring.html
    https://theflooringlady.com/garage_flooring_ideas.html

  11. The problem with my basement is walls. The foundation walls of my 125 year old house are made of large stones. This rock foundation is immensely strong but when it rains it leaks some through the endless seams between the stones. So my concrete floor gets wet in a heavy rain. is there any practical way to seal these stones without building create wall in front of them (they are beautiful). And if I cant seal these walls, what can i use to put over my sometimes damp concrete floor to make it more attractive?

  12. Hi Stephen,
    It sounds like your best bet would be to see if the walls can be fixed since that’s where the water leaks in. I’m afraid I can’t help you there, though I’m sure you could use a search engine to find out if it’s feasible to repair the walls yourself. You may have to rely on a professional for this one.
    There’s lots of good options for sealing and ‘decorating’ cement flooring here on the site, but you’re going to have to address the moisture issue first.

  13. Hi. We just bought a new-to-us house that was built in the 70s. It has a walk-out basement that gets some dampness in it during very heavy rains. We just tore out all of the (stinky, mildewy) carpet that the last people had in there. We do not want to put more carpet in until we make sure that it is not getting wet anymore. In the meantime, we are thinking about either painting or staining the concrete down there so that it is usable space. I’m worried, though, because it seems that the previous owners’ dogs peed down there. Will the sealant we put on after staining the floors be good enough to seal in any odors? Does concrete even hold odors like that?
    Thank you!
    Faye

  14. Before you seal any concrete floor, the floor needs to be cleaned. I would suggest that you use a product that will also help with eliminating odors as well.
    There’s quite a few wonderful options for creating lovely concrete floors such as staining or painting. Just make sure to explore your options as different treatments have different requirements for sealing and such. I wouldn’t recommend carpeting, just because of the fact that carpets can create a whole host of health problems by holding mold, mildew and other allergens which can be detrimental to your health – which you already know from your current experience.

  15. We are ready to put flooring on our basement floor, our question is ‘can we put wood studs on the basement floor first before the laminate.

  16. Hi Ellen,
    I’m not sure I’m following you on this one. What type of flooring do you have now? For most folks, it’d be concrete and you’d just need to follow the manufacturer’s directions for installing it (including vapor/moisture barriers, etc.).
    If you pop back in and give me a clearer picture (for my mind!) on what you have, what you want to do, I’d be able to help you out better. ;~)

  17. We just cleaned up from two feet of water in our basement in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. Carpeting in the basement has been removed and dry wall in the “rec” room has been cut four feet up and removed. Professional cleaners have come in and sanitized the poured concrete wall. I hope there is a correct way to proceed refinishing the wrecked room and upgrading the rest of the concrete in the unfinished areas. Please help!!

  18. We are finishing a basememt room for my wife’s sewing room. Would a 6mm cork underlayment over the concrete help keep the floor warmer under laminate flooring?

  19. Kathy, sorry to hear about the flood — what a mess! It sure sounds as if you have done all the right things to get the basement cleaned and prepped for refinishing that space.
    I’m not sure what you mean about a correct way to proceed in refinishing the original space and finishing the unfinished space. While I wait for your input I’ll make some comments about your planning stage.
    * install a vapor barrier on all concrete surfaces that touch earth
    * consider wiring for more than you think you want or need — electrical, phone, TV, cable, internet, etc
    * use low VOC materials in your work to keep your air quality good
    * consider installing an exhaust fan to help keep the air fresh
    * insulate walls and floor as best you can to make for a more comfortable space
    Now, what were your really asking me? ;~)

  20. Bill, good for you for anticipating the floor comfort. I remember a contractor laughing at me many years ago for voicing that same concern — he clearly didn’t office in an uninsulated basement room!
    The cork underlayment will help insulate the floor some. Adding a vapor barrier first to make it even better.
    But if you can manage, also install infloor radiant heat. There are several types available for a project like yours, and it will make a world of difference, even on some summer days, if you so need.
    You have chosen two very good products to improve the warmth feeling. And depending on where you live, heat may make it even better.

  21. We are adding on to an existing structure that has a slab on grade foundation. The existing structure has a mildew/moisture problem that we do not want to repeat in the new building (which is also slab on grade). What is the best flooring options, what pre-floor treatments should we make sure not to miss. The new structure will be 2 bedrooms, a bath, and storage, the previous was built from a poll barn and has 2 bedrooms, a small kitchen and a small bath. we are at a loss on how to proceed. Could you please lend some of your expert advice?

  22. Hi Priscilla,
    Fortunately, you can go with just about any floor your heart desires so long as the moisture is truly taken care of. I’m sure you read the above article, so that should give you a few options of how you can begin getting ready for that new floor. You can do a search (search box is located at the upper right-hand corner) for different ways to seal your concrete floor.
    Unfortunately, you can go with just about any floor your heart desires…….. which means you may get overwhelmed trying to decide just what flooring product to purchase! ;~) Decisions, decisions…….

  23. My basement was flooded. I torned out the carpet and bought ceremic tiles to put in. The inspector from my house insurance came and recommended that I cut off and re-do about 1 foot of the dry wall around the whole rec room. It looks like a big job. I was thinking of not doing this and just put in the tiles. The dry wall looks good and does not seem to have any molds. Should I re-do 1-foot of the dry wall around the whole rec room?

  24. Hi Linda,
    Your insurance ajuster/inspector probably suggested that it be replaced because getting it wet does weaken it, not necessarily because of mold, though that would be a good reason to replace it too. Sometimes the mold will grow on the backside too and get on the wall studs from there too, which is a major pain to take care of.
    I guess the big question is if he recommended that it be replaced, does that mean they’ll pay for it? Will they pay for hiring somebody to do it? If so, I’d go for it…… Hidden mold is always a danger after a flood and it really can wreak havoc with your health. Go to Google and type in “black mold” dangers or dangerous, read from some of the hits and you’ll see what I mean.
    If you’re positive that there is no mold and he’s only ‘recommending’ it, then I feel the decision is yours, but make sure to check it out first.

  25. Hi, Our basement was just flooded, we live in WI. We just removed all the carpet and padding that was glued to the floor. We also just replaced the dry wall. We want to put new flooring down, but we don’t have alot of money. I was thinking about painting incase this would happen again. I’m really not sure what kind of paint to buy. I have heard alot about epoxy paint, it’s just really expensive. Any suggestions??? Thank you, Michelle.

  26. Epoxy paint is a very good choice, but not the only choice you have. Their are paints made for cement flooring and you’d also have the option of cement stains. Use the search tab in the upper right hand corner to read up on these – you can also find more information by going to your favorite search engine. (Mine’s google!)

  27. I live in a tiny basement apartment. Currently in the kitchen there are white ceramic tiles, but some of them are cracked and broken. In the living room, there is parquet (sp?). Could I use peel and stick tiles over top of both? What other options do you see for me? (Think inexpensive!) Thanks!!!

  28. Hi Jen,
    Have you asked the owner if you can do something about the floors – or if the owner can? I’d get some input there first. You never know s/he might go for taking if off of your rent (save receipts!) if you’ll be doing it yourself.
    I’ll check back in to see what the owner has to say and suggests and you & I can go from there.

  29. Those tiles would probably work ok on the parquet, since it’s a flat surface. If the white ceramic tiles have grout that is not flat with the tiles, then you’ll need to fill in where the grout is before you put down your new tile.

  30. Having done a project like that myself several years ago the one caution I’ll offer is about the height of your floor. Make sure doors will open over the new floor level and that you aren’t blocking your built-in appliances (like dishwasher) into their location.

  31. Thanks for your help. I’m hopeful that I can do this all on my own. I’ve been browsing online and really like the laminate wood floors. I’m going to save my pennies for that!!

  32. In our basement rec room, we had installed peel and stick tiles over a painted floor. We suspect the previous owners, who painted the floor, used the wrong kind of paint. We’ve been dealing with problems of the paint bubbling up between the tile seams and making an absolute mess. We tried removing some of the tiles, wiping up the paint and putting the tiles back. We’re still having the same paint problem. What we’re thinking about doing now is installing vinyl sheet. Would it be best to remove the peel and stick first or could we just lay the sheet over top? Or should we just not fight it and go with a painted floor (done the right way)? Thanks!

  33. It’s my guess that you most likely have moisture problems. If I’m correct, then a moisture-proof paint is required before you even think about
    putting anything on your floor. Another option, I guess is to just float a moisture-proof floor over your existing floor. I really think you should read up on the Moisture Proofing and Sealing Basement Floors sections of the site. Hope this helps you some!

  34. Hi Jen,
    Sure it is! It’s easier if you have somebody who can help out though. What kind of laminate are you referring to? The click-together kind? Just be sure to read up on how to install it, tips and how to take care of those pesky issues that can arise when installing it. If you’re going to do it, do it right. You sound like a very resourceful person, I’m sure you’ll be able to find lots of info by using your favorite search engine (like Google) and Do-It-Yourself forums. Home Depot, Lowe’s and laminiate manufacturer’s are usually good sources for information as well.

  35. Dearest Flooring Lady…
    Imagine me, 1st time homeowner, 7yr old home, no water/mositure issues, newly finished basement. Ok, now I need to finish the floor. It is concrete. More importantly, I need to cover this floor “on the cheap.” I read your ideas about simply painting them, but that’s not appealing. Laminate is not in the budget, so that leaves carpet remnents or that peel and stick business you mentioned. UNLESS, you have another plan for me!

  36. Hi Baker,
    How ‘crafty’ are you?
    I really don’t have any other ideas for you, but maybe you shouldn’t be so quick to chuck the idea of painting your floor. Have you ever seen all those neat pamphlets that have ideas for painting your walls? Guess what……… you can do it on your floors too! You can do things like make it look like marble, stone, do stenciling, blended effects, lots of possibilities. Of course, seal it afterwards as well. Might even want to use a vapor sealer before painting or tiling as well, just in case there’s a moisture problem that’s slight and that you’re not aware of.
    You might want to consider the idea of staining your concrete – you can get some really neat effects with that. Use your favorite search engine (you know, like Google) to find some awesome photos on the web too.

  37. Robert, I think it could be a great flooring solution for your basement. I say great because it’s a sustainable flooring option; it’s an insulator so your feet will be warmer; it’s a sound insulator so “bouncing” noises will be muffled or deadened.
    I’d go with glue-down cork tiles rather than engineered floating cork panels. Bostik’s Best is my choice because it is low VOC and is durable against both water and heat (as in infloor heating).
    My concerns about moisture and even water are a big part of my thought there. If you are installing a moisture proof subfloor first the engineered flooring might be ok, but I’d still go with the tiles.
    Then coat with several coats of Varathane Diamond Coat Polyurethane formulated for floors. It’s low VOC (important to keep your air quality good), durable, and easy to apply.

  38. hi! We have a room in our basement that we have been using for storage since we had our basement re-done (about 2/3 years ago). I would like to make this storage room into my bedroom. One problem is that it has a concrete floor. When the rest of the basement was re-done they apparently needed to level the floor, to do this they poured a new cement floor, but not in this room. This leads me to believe the floor in the storage room may not be level, but I am not sure. Another problem is that this floor is about 70 years-old and it shows. It does have some little divots and such, but I do not see any cracks. We have not had water in our basement, but it can get humid in this room, the floor does sometimes feel a little damp to the touch. I really have NO IDEA what to put on this floor. I do know that I DO NOT want carpet, or anything that will hold moisture of any kind, this would include wood and laminate flooring as well. Any ideas on what I can do with this floor?? Thanks! ~Samantha

  39. I’ve been looking at Home Depot’s Traffic Master Allure vinyl planks for a possibility for my basement. When we bought the house a year ago, the original tiles had to removed because they contained asbestos. We are left with a very ugly concrete floor. There has been water in the past, but we seem to have found the source of the leak and have had a dry floor all summer…and it has been a wet summer. I read on another site where someone used this flooring in their basement and they ended up with horrible mold growing underneath it since it does not completley seal out air and moisture from underneath. Do you think sealing the concrete before installing would be enough to ensure that this would not happen? It seems that it would be a good idea no matter what. Is this a DIY project?

  40. Hi Mindy,
    Yes, you should seal your floor first, and you’re correct – that’s always a good idea. Good luck with your project (and yes, you can DIY) and I’ll keep my fingers crossed that nothing else leaks! ;~)

  41. Hi Samantha,
    You might want to consider some sort of epoxy paint or epoxy stone flooring or having a thin coat of concrete done (especially if it’s not level) and then having it stained – or try to DIY if you feel adventurous (the staining part). Be sure to do some Google-ing to find some really great articles for DIY as well as wonderfully inspirational photos.
    Oh, one more thought: I’ll bet that when the new layer of concrete was poured, that whoever did it put some sort of plastic down first (vapor barrier), or at least sealed the old concrete first – that way there’d be no more dampness seeping up from beneath. With epoxy, this isn’t necessary (the sealing part) because epoxy acts as a moisture barrier too.

  42. Thank you for your response! Do you have any experience with the vinyls planks I mentioned earlier? If so, do you think a cold basement will be ok for them?

  43. Yes, should be ok, though you’d still need to seal the concrete first with something that brushes on. You’ll still have to put down the plastic underlayment for the planks, but if you have dampness you can get some icky stuff growing between the plastic and concrete.
    Be sure that if you buy planks to let them acclimate for a couple weeks before laying the floor. FYI: acclimating them is simply removing them from their packaging (yes, it’s ok to stack them like they are in the package) so that they can adjust to the temperature & humidity – that way you shouldn’t get so much shrinkage or swelling that your floor buckles or has gaps.

  44. Hi, I had 10 inches of water on June 2008 on the basement. I removed all the carpets and drywalls. What kind of floor covering do you think is good to put on the basement cement floor, so in case of flooding again I don’t need to remove it. I was thinking to put Ceramic tile.
    Thank you Al…

  45. Hi Al,
    Ceramic tile can be a good choice so long as everything is sealed well enough that water cannot get underneath.
    Stained concrete is another good option, gives you lots of looks too. You can read about Stained Concrete floors here and here.
    My basement experienced flooding this year too, first time ever since we’ve lived here. Our laminate floors are ruined – warped. I plan to stain our concrete floors next year with soy based stain.

  46. Hi,
    We had the same problem with flooding last year. The first time it has ever happened. We don’t even have a hint of moisture in the basement. We removed the carpets and had the sheet rock ripped from the bottom and redone. Are there any insulated flooring options such as rubber tiles that resist mold in case this happened again? There is also a flooring they use in franchise restaurants and ships which comes in a bucket – I have never seen it used in a home – do you know if this would be difficult to install?

  47. I don’t know what the flooring is that ‘comes in a bucket’ – perhaps epoxy? If so, yes, this can be used in a basement on concrete and is actually it’s own water/vapor barrier.
    For the most part, most flooring options aren’t going to work well because of the possibilities of mold unless the moisture problem is addressed. You can read more about options at the Moisture Proofing section of the site – the link is on the right hand side of this page.

  48. Have you thought about staining I just stained my concrete basement floor with Sim Stain concrete stain. It is enviromentally safe, was easy to use, and comes in over 27 colors. What a difference it made.

  49. You say, “you should seal your floor first”. What do we need to seal our floor with? The more specific you can be the better since we know not much. Thanks

  50. Hi JR,
    You wouldn’t need to seal it as long as there are no moisture problems in your basement. If there are areas that get wet, you should address that first. If they don’t get wet (when it rains), there still could be moisture issues because moisture creeps up through the concrete from the ground. There are test kits for finding out if you have any moisture (it’s doesn’t have to be visible!), if so, a brush-on or roll-on sealer might be a good choice. You can find concrete sealers at any Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.
    What kind of material are you planning to put over the concrete floor?

  51. Hi,
    I purchased a spec home in 2003 that originally had linoleum floors in the kitchen, entry way, and bathrooms. In 2006, I wanted to upgrade my flooring so I had tile floors professionally done approximately a year to year and a half later my tile floor literally buckled and broke. I was told I had “too much moisture” so they put a moisture barrier down and replaced my tile floor with the same tile. Approximately one year after the floor was replaced the tile is buckling and lifting from the slab. They again did a moisture test and I was told that the moisture directly coming from the concrete was 10.75 lbs and with the moisture barrier it was 4.59 lbs. They are saying that I have a moisture problem and that they do not have a solution for me. My question is could this possible be an instillation issue, and what can I do to fix my moisture problem, and what type of floor would you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Natalie

  52. Hi Natalie –
    I’m a bit confused by portions of your post. Was the linoleum removed prior to the tile installation?
    What type of a moisture barrier was put down?
    Based on what info I have so far, it does sound like an installation problem – I don’t understand why you still have moisture issues with a vapor barrier, unless the installer didn’t use an appropriate barrier. Some more info would really help.

  53. hi,
    I would like to do a finished concrete floor in my basement. Presently, I have old tiles over the concrete with black glue. How do I remove the black glue to get to the concrete

  54. Hi Kim,
    There are adhesive removers that you can buy to remove the old glue. Many people report very good success just using hot water. Just pour hot water on it, it softens the glue so that you can scrape it off. Good luck!

  55. Our basement had old linoleum square tiles when we moved in. It was an outdated, 1960’s/70’s ugly colored pattern. They’ve since been removed but the black adhesive remains. We’ve decided to just go ahead and put linoleum back down on the floor and use throw rugs and large area rugs to seprate the large room into “separate” areas. We have a large rec/tv area that is 13′ x 26′ as well as a hall area into another 12′ x 15′ room.
    My question is….do I need to try and remove the existing adhesive only to put down more or can I just apply more over the top of the old?
    Thanks for your reply!

  56. Hi Karen,
    You need to try to remove the old. My concern is there may be asbestos in the adhesive, very common for back in the 60’s-70’s. I wouldn’t be suprised if it were in the old tile too. The important thing is to keep it wet when removing the old adhesive – if you’re lucky, simply using hot water and a scraper will do the trick, that way you won’t have to use chemicals or spend the extra money.
    You have to remove the old adhesive, otherwise your new tiles might appear bumpy from the old hard adhesive underneath.
    Just be careful to avoid exposure to the asbestos – it’s dangerous when the tiny particles become airborn, you can breath them in and risk some very serious health problems. I’m not trying to scare you…….well, ok, yes I am. I suggest you read up more on the dangers of asbestos and how to properly remove asbestos containing adhesive. There are kits that you can buy at your major home improvement stores to test for asbestos too. I would highly suggest you invest the small amount of money to check this.

  57. Do you know if you can put a laminate flooring down on a floor that has radiant heating in it? It’s for our unfinished basement floor.

  58. We are thinking of just painting our basement floor. Our basement is being remodeled professionally though. It has a walk out door, we would like to use it as a game room and study. We have a 10 and 11 year old that will soon be teens with friends. We want the rooms to look “completed ” though when the contractor is done. Any suggestions?

  59. We have begun the process of finishing the basement of our townhome. It is a below-ground level basement, but it does have a door leading to steps that climb up into our backyard. We do not have a huge water issue, although we have to run a dehumidifier in the warm months otherwise it smells musty. The only time we have had water issues, is when the drain outside the back door is blocked with leaves, and in a heavy downpour water overflows into the basement. We have to monitor this diligently.
    we would like to put in carpeting in at least the front half of our basement (opposite side from the door), because we plan to use that side as a play area for our children. The back half (towards the backdoor) we would be using as the TV/entertainment side and were thinking of just painting and throwing down a good rug on the floor. In my Internet research, I have learned that installing carpets is perfectly do-able, provided certain precautions (subflooring,etc) are taken. I was looking at some systems, like DriCore and ThermalDry. Do you have an opinion about these or others? And also, would it be possible to install the subfloor and carpet on half the basement floor and leave the other half bare? If so, how would we finish the edges? Do you have any other suggestions? We definitely need carpeting in one half, but are hoping to reduce costs by not installng it all over (and certainly not near the door)
    I hope questions are clear. Thank you! This is a great website!
    Shabana

  60. Hi Shabana,
    If you use DriCore and ThermalDry (both good systems), this will cause your floor to be different heights.
    I never recommend carpeting in areas that have moisture issues – they harbor too many allergens which seem to get worse with moisture – even moisture in the air. Think mold, mildew, bacteria….. you get the idea.
    You do have a water problem and really need to address it properly. French drains might help, having a gutter guard system (or something similar) would help. Sealing the concrete (vapor barrier) would help.

  61. We are interested in finishing our walkout basement. We are concerned about the flooring type we should go with. The basement floor is built on concrete slabs that so far had arised about an inch higher than the foundation of the house as well as at the entrance of the patio door. It has cracks in the joints and also has arised in some of four joints of slabs making the floor uneven (like a little volvano rising). Carpeting is an option but having kids going in and out on snow days is not the best option. We were thinking about engineering hardwood flooring but with the uneven floor we do not know if it may works. And with the slabs higher than the patio door we can not considered a subflooring that may be great. Do we have to redo all slabs? or there is a cheaper but quality solution for it?
    Thanks.

  62. Hi Carmen,
    I’m hoping you wouldn’t have to redo the slabs, but without really being able to examine the situation first hand, I cannot tell for sure. I would recommend that you find a professional (or two or three!) in your area to have a look at it and see what they think. If you’d like, you can always come back here and let me know what they are saying about your floor.

  63. Hello, please forgive the book I am about to write, but I need some guidance. Here we go…We purchase our first home in New London, CT this past April which has a finished basement with carpet in the main rooms, tile in laundry room, and linolium in kitchen and bath. The basement is about 900sf of habitable space. Prior to purchasing the home, a previous prospective buyer had a mold test done and it came back possible with mold in the air, however the levels were not harmful, so they say. We had a radon test done and it came at 4.0pcl, which is right at the limit where they recomment mitigating. We were thinking about having it mitidated but have not done so just yet. Two months ago, in a freak chance our boiler sprung a leak and flooded the hallway section of the basement. I ripped up the carpeted area and found the drywall and baseboards had sucked up some water so I removed the bad spots…finding black mold in many areas behind it. We then had the boiler fixed and filed an insurance claim for the repairs. They quoted us about $7,000 to remove and replace the carpet for the entire basement, base boards and affected drywall. So now here is the question…do we replace with carpet again or do we do we tile. My family is very eco friendly so we are even thinking about cork floors, what are your thoughts? Now the estimate from insurance did not cover sealing the basements floors which I would like to do. Any idea what the going rate for sealing basements would be? Do I need to rip down all the finished walls or just have the floors done? I really would like ceramic tile but I am afraid of the grout or tiles cracking over time due to cracking or shifting foundations. Is this a real concern? Please help us…we are ready go forward with the repair/renovation but do not know where to start or which direction to go. I’m sure I will have more questions for you as well. Thanks!

  64. Hi Michael,
    Lots of questions………
    Yes, seal the floors for sure. I don’t recommend carpet for basements – harbors too many allergens. Ceramic tile is fine, though cracking is always a possibility. If you haven’t noticed basement floor cracks yet, you’ll probably be ok – it’s just the chance you take. There are other choices too. I’d really recommend that you look over the Full Archives of this site so that you can look over the differet types of flooring choices. It’s going to be even more of a book to read than what you wrote, but at least you’ll be well informed and will be in a better position to make a choice as to what you want.

  65. We have hairline cracks in the poured basement floor which just recently began to seep water. We have taken up the existing carpet and are drying everything out. Question #1 What product can be used to seal the cracks? Question #2 Replace the carpet or tile the affected areas? Thanks

  66. Please go to the page forMoisture Proofing. You’ll find links to other articles for what types of products are available. I would suggest not using carpeting in a basement – carpets harbor all sorts of allergens and the situation is worse when it’s in a basement.

  67. currently having basement waterproofed. We are currently missing a lot of the basement floor tiles (10″ square, old asbestos), I was wondering what options we have. Do we have to remove all the tiles and start over or can we build up the tiles that are missing with apoxy (sp) or something else?

  68. Hi Mark,
    I’d recommend doing a search (upper right hand corner) for asbestos – issues such as this have been covered many times before. Basically, your choices are either to have it removed (best left to a professional) or covering it. Yes, epoxy will work well to fill in where tiles used to be, but you should really cover up all the tiles. So long as old asbestos tiles are completely covered with another substance you’re fine.

  69. I am trying to determine which type of flooring is best for my situation. We have a daylight basement, that leads outside to our garage on one side and a door to our pool on the other. The “basement” also includes 2 bedrooms for our children and a full bath as well as a den. We ripped out our carpet and cannot decide on the best option for new flooring. Flooring needs to be able to withstand pool water, spilled drinks, muddy boots as well as “accidents” from our dogs. Room size is 18×20 and we are on somewhat of a budget. Carpet is not an option for us and prefer not to use anything that is not child friendly. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I cannot decide. Thanks..

  70. Hi Dana,
    There are so many flooring options available today. I would suggest that you read up on the different types to help you narrow down your choices. Research on the web or read more at this site. There are links on the right hand side for different flooring options.

  71. Hi
    we are trying to redoe our basement
    i cant have carpet as we have had to replace it twice
    i do have a quote from a sealer to come and seal the basement but would like to try other ideas
    i would like to make it look like a wood floor but have noidea where to begin
    any ideas?>
    Erika

  72. I was wondering what options I have to finish an ugly and pitted concrete basement floor. Occassionally I do get water that runs across the floor, so carpet or wood are not an option. Is there an inexpensive way to accomplish this other than a simple coat of paint.

  73. Hi Erika,
    What type of sealer are they planning on using? How bad of a moisture problem do you have? Where is the water coming from? I know……lots of questions! :~) If sealing your floor works, you’ll pretty much be able to put down what you want – engineered hardwood, vinyl, laminate, stone, etc….. You could even have another thin coat of conrete so that you can have a stained conrete floor – you can get some awesome effects from that! Good luck!

  74. Hi John,
    Epoxy would work better as regular paint will probably peel off. You really should address the moisture issue though so that you can finish your floor how you’d like. There are sub-floor methods too– links can be found under Moisture Proofing.

  75. we are currently redoing our 500sf basement and are trying to find the lowest cost flooring solution. Right now the floors are concrete and quite uneven. The ceilings are extremely low, so we’d prefer something that doesn’t raise the floor too much. It is a dry basement, although in the summer we have a dehumidifier on. Someone suggested putting smaller ceramic tiles directly on to the existing floor, or to add electric heating beneath tiles for warmth. This sounds quite costly. Would adhesive linoleum or cork tiles work?

  76. We are currently redoing our 500sf basement and are trying to find the most simple and cheapest flooring solution. Right now the floors are concrete and uneven (which we can live with). The ceilings are extremely low, so we’d prefer something that doesn’t really raise the floor too much. It feels like a dry basement, although in the summer it smells slightly musty so we keep a dehumidifier on. Someone suggested putting smaller (to move with the unevenness) ceramic tiles directly on to the existing floor, but we’re concerned about the coldness and possible cracking. They also suggested adding electric heating beneath tiles as a way of heating the space. This sounds quite costly. We are wondering about cork or linoleum tiles, but are concerned about them lifting because of temperature and moisture changes and uneven cement foundation. We are also concerned about fumes from epoxy. Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated.

  77. Anything you want to do will work so long as the basement is indeed dry. I would suggest leveling the floor though or else you could run into problems – especially with any kind of tile. The in-floor heating is an excellent idea by the way, and well worth the money.

  78. Hi,
    I have an upstairs bedroom that we are currently uptdating. The floor is covered with asbestos tiles. We do not have the money to get into high cost of proper removal and disposal of these tiles, and we don’t want to just carpet over it.
    I am wondering if you have any suggestions or thoughts about painting over the tiles. We’re wondering if that might work, and if so, what kind of primer and paint we should use. Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated.

  79. Hi Rachel,
    It depends on the condition of the tiles. If any are cracked, chipped, frayed or damaged in any other way they should be removed…….. period.
    Different ways of covering are covered on this site, I would suggest using the search function located at the upper right hand corner of the page.

  80. Hello Flooring Lady!
    My husband and I just purchased a home in a flood zone which has a finished walk out basement. (We liked the home enough to take the risk!) It has been flooded twice in the past 7 years…
    Our question is, currently the basement has carpet. In general, we are not fans of carpet and we’d like to replace it with something lovely and something we would not have to rip out and replace in a flood.
    Under the carpet is the original concrete foundation from the 1950’s. We both love the look of finished concrete. However, we are concerned about the potentially very cold floor under our feet. The ceilings in the room are also quite low…7.5 feet, so we are not sure if we have room to build up for radiant floor heating underneath new concrete.
    The room, which is nearly 1000 sqft, will be used for TV watching, office, treadmill (rec room kind of thing)
    Is it possible to do finished concrete in our basement? Would we be pouring new concrete? Is there an option to warm concrete floors? And if concrete is not possible, do you have any other suggestions?
    Thank You!

  81. I have a 700sf ft basement that already have tile in it. I was wondering if I could install peel and stick tiles over it? We have a dehumidifier running a all times and the hygrometer states that the moister level is normal in this area. If I am able to use these tiles is there something I should do to the floor to prepare it before placing the tiles dowm?

  82. Hi Renae,
    There are several ways to go. I’d suggest looking in the Full Archives and reading up on the subjects that would pertain to your situation. There are different things you can do with concrete and different options for in-floor heating. Good luck and be sure to come back with additional questions!

  83. I have a house built in the 80’s with a cement basement floor that has had moisture problems in the past but mostly from septic tank back up. There are cracks in the floor and some very slight heaving. I plan on putting down plastic dimple flooring and then a 3/4″ subfloor on top that. Do you think that the cracks in the floor still need to be fixed. And I was also thinking of laying laminate for flooring. Do you think heaving will cause us any problems when laying the laminate.

  84. Hi Jason,
    It would still probably be a good idea to fix the cracks if they’re rather wide and then seal with some sort of brush-on or roll-on type of cement sealer. If they’re tiny in width, then just using the sealer should do. So long as you get the subfloor level then you should have no problems with laying the laminate.

  85. I had rented my house out for a few years. When i got it back the renter the the cats use the basement floor as a litter box. It smells BAD! I have tried everything. Last thing i tried is a shellac based primer. It still smells and smells even worse when it rains. What can i do to get this smell out of my floor?

  86. Hi Sara,
    Do you really mean a shellac based sealer?? Just wondering. What was the product you used? It’s also possible that the cats sprayed on the walls too.
    I’m not sure that there is a product that can really penetrate through shellac if the smell is still seeping through, which is why I’d like to know what you used to shellac your floor.

  87. In response to the lady with the asbestos tile. Call and have a couple people who do residential removal, it may not be THAT expensive. It will also give you more options. I had 550 square feet of asbestos tile and mastic removed for 1100. Not bad i thought.

  88. Thanks for posting Josh! It sounds like you got a reasonable price for the asbestos tile removal – well worth the price for not having to deal with removing and figuring out all the legalities of disposal yourself!

  89. We are having a house built with a full basement. We were wanting to score and stain a design or pattern in the basement floor. Someone told me I shouldn’t do anything to encourage cracking in the basement. What do you think?

  90. I applied Stone Mason EZ Stone to my concrete floor in the basement. Within days the floor showed signs of staining. Is this a result of moisture coming through the concrete if so what can be done.

  91. Hi Brock,
    Who told you that? There is no reason why scoring (which is not done deeply) should encourage the basement floor to crack. Cracks are usually caused by settling or poor workmanship. Stained concrete flooring is a wonderful idea!

  92. Hi Dave,
    It’s hard for me to determine without seeing it myself, but it could be moisture. Is there any possibility that the floor had some stains and they came through? If in doubt, the best thing to do is to test it for moisture.

  93. I have a basement gets water in one area when it rains heavily. We have carpet and have to pull it up everytime. What is another option for us. We use the room as a game/family room. Is there a paint that we can use on the concrete that will stand the test of time/rain? Also I was interested in the type of paint to use and technique that would make the floor look like stone flooring. Thanks
    Krista

  94. Hi Krista,
    I would recommend some sort of epoxy paint or epoxy stone or resin stone flooring. There are also different materials that can be added to the paint to make it look like stone – some very decorative.
    What I would really recommend is figuring out where the water is coming from and address that problem. Once you’ve accomplished that, you should be able to use anything you’d like for flooring.
    You can read up on these types of flooring options elsewhere on the site. Go to the top right-hand corner of this page, click on “Full Archives” and find articles that look like they may pertain to your situation and read. ;~)

  95. Hi,
    We are going to finish our basement> it is new construction and we waited about a yr and a half to make sure it will be dry. So far, so good. What are your thoughts about glue down engineered flooring vs a floating laminate? Ann

  96. Hi Ann,
    Either is fine so long as your basement has no moisture issues. You should test the concrete to make sure – basically, take a piece of clear plastic wrap or bag and tape it down to the floor. Check it the next day to see if there’s any moisture or fogging of the plastic. If so, you should apply a moisture barrier – the kind you apply with a paint roller should be fine as I would assume that your concrete is in perfect condition. Actually, this should be your first step anyway – don’t want a nasty surprise later! Glue down is more ‘permanent’ and more difficult to remove. If you decide to change your flooring or if your basement should flood in the future, the floating laminate is going to be much easier to remove. It’s a personal call, and your choice. For all intents and purposes, either will work.

  97. We’re getting conflicting stories RE: ceramic or porcelain tiles for our 13×30 basement flooring project. One place said absolutely NO ceramic tile if we might get water. There is a history of water coming in but we think that’s taken care of now. I’ve read all your posts and don’t see anything advising one way or the other. Thank you.

  98. I have a nightmare basement – it had to have waterproofing done right after moving in. originally ceramic tile, now, ceramic tile with 1-2 feet perimeter of concrete over new french drain. for stained concrete, I think expense rising since existing tile needs grinding down. What are my options???? flood always possible, carpet out due to that. Is laminate flood proof???

  99. Hi Sarah,
    Laminate is not flood proof, sorry. Personally, I think I’d wait a while before deciding on a flooring choice – just to see if you get any flooding at all now that the French drains have been installed and the waterproofing as well.
    You wouldn’t have to necessarily grind down the tiles, they could probably be removed – you’d still have to re-level the concrete underneath or grind it so it’s even.
    With a basement that is prone to flooding, you really don’t have much in the way of choices as just about everything can be ruined by water.
    One other idea: why not have a multi-material floor? Leave the tiles and stain or paint the concrete that’s over the French drains?

  100. Hi Hal,
    Yes, ceramic or porcelain tiles should not be used if your basement is prone to flooding. Hopefully you are correct, and the problem is taken care of. Why not wait a while and see? So long as the moisture problem has been remedied, then you can lay tile down. Remember to seal the concrete first though! So long as you don’t get any more water coming in, your tiles shouldn’t get damaged.

  101. i have a question…currently i am living in the downstairs of my grandmothers house….which had a cement base,upstairs under the carpet was beautiful wood floors which we refinished,for the floors downstasirs once i take up carpet and the concrete is exposed do you have any affordable ideas i could do myself other than carpet in the bedroom,we just did the kitchen in a laminate,but i wanted something different?

  102. I have a basement floor question. The previous owners painted the basement floor green with a masonry paint that did not hold up well. I wired brushed the entire basement floor and found out that they painted over vinyl tiling. I wanted to put an epoxy floor coating down on the floor because I thought it was concrete. Is his still an option? The basement if fairly dry as well

  103. Hi..we have an old house with a cement basement floor. Our basement never floods but it can get damp. Most of the floor has old laminate tile that was laid with a black mastic of some kind–we’re not interested in taking it up. But, there are some places where there isn’t tile (under where interior walls used to be). We’d like to have some concrete laid over it and then stained/stamped. Is that possible without taking up the tile?
    Our 2nd option is to simply put down some peel and stick tile to fill in the gaps and then paint the whole floor. Do we sand the laminate tiles and then paint over that?
    Thanks..great site!

  104. Hi Natalie, I’m curious; why do you want to pour concrete over the floor? There are a lot of variables here, one of which would depend on how thick you would want to pour the concrete. Also, if you would pour the concrete over the existing tile, you would have to have some type of barrier put over the tile such as black plastic. Otherwise, if the old tile would start to break loose, it would float up into the concrete.

    Painting over the tile is not a good option either. I would consider removing the remaining tile, grinding the concrete so it’s smooth and then staining/stamping the concrete.

  105. I have concrete basemant floor. was stained 4 years again and decided to repaint it. well little did I know the stain and latex paint don’t work well together. so, I have to remove the paint (I used Behr concrete and masonary cleaner) Now I want to try again. What do I use?

  106. I have concrete basement floor. was stained 4 years again and decided to repaint it. well little did I know the stain and latex paint don’t work well together. so, I have to remove the paint (I used Behr concrete and masonary cleaner) Now I want to try again. What do I use?

  107. Miki,
    Another option may be to re-stain the concrete floor as paints are highly susceptible to flaking and peeling and if the area is high traffic it might not be the best option for you. Concrete Stains can be used to recolor previously stained concrete and it’s suggested at around 5 years to recolor. The use of the cleaner will be highly beneficial before staining as the surface should be free from all oil, dirt, and grease before re-staining.

  108. Do I need to place a vapor barrier of some sort on a unsealed/unpainted concrete basement floor before I apply thinset and tile? If so what kind?

  109. Unsealed Concrete will absorb water-so yes a vapor barrier is required. I would consult a professional in your area who is familiar with the moisture content as they could recommend the correct type of vapor barrier to use.

  110. hi…
    my basement floor is cement. I was thinking of putting vinyl tiles over the cement. the vinyl tiles have adhesive on the back but i was wondering if theres anything i can do to make it stick even better?? ( i heard that if i painted the floor it would stick better? but im not sure if thats true or even work..)

  111. Hi Gloria, You can just use the peel stick tiles or you can use the adhesive recommended by the tile manufacturer.

    Paiting the cement will not make them adhere better. You would actually have to sand the cement in order to help the tiles stick properly if you paint it first.

  112. Hi,
    I have removed tile and black (cutback) adhesive from the concrete floor in my basement. I cleaned up as much of the residue as possible using concrete cleaner and a wet/dry vac. The floor looks clean however I am interested in applying a sealer of some sort and/or paint then carpet. The adhesive I removed caused a bad smell in the house and even though it’s been removed, I still get a trace of the smell and I think applying a sealer might help. What sealers or paints would you recommend and do you think the concrete surface is prepared enough for sealers/paints to adhere? Thank you.

  113. The odor might be coming from the moisture wicking up through the concrete slab and reactivating any residual old adhesive. You might find the odor worse in the humid or wet weather.
    If that is the issue you might try a dehumidifier and sealing and perhaps carpeting might help the smell. I would consult a local professional in your area to inquire what products whether you paint or seal would adhere well with the moisture level in your home.

  114. I am in the middle of redoing my basement..its a dry basement and i am not sure what to use for flooring.. i have seen those 2×2 square carpenting is that good to use or does it peal up? the basement does get damp so we use the dehumidifier. i spent a lot of cash to fix this up so the flooring is something i dont to mess up. any ideas?

  115. Alan,
    You can research sublooring/a floating subfloor,which will protect the basement concrete. The flooring you choose to put on top of the subfloor is a personal preference. Perhaps contacting a local professional in your area to confirm which type of subfloor as well as flooring that suits your home.

  116. I’m removing the smelly carpet and pad in my basement (it is a somewhat damp basement), but have found old black adhesive underneath that had been used for tiles of some sort before the carpet was put down. Do I need to remove the adhesive? If so, how?
    Also, I’m wondering what is the most cost-effective flooring to put down to replace the carpet? The area will mostly be used as a playroom, so cushioning and cleanability are important. Would vinyl be a good option? Would I need to seal the floor first? Or does the vinyl provide the moisture barrier?
    Thanks!

  117. Beth,

    Moisture problems need to be resolved before you make any decisions about your flooring choices. Read the various articles I have on moisture proofing to find the solution that works for you. If the problem is more than just moisture, like standing water, you may have to install a French drain around the perimeter of the house before tackling the moisture problem. Black mold is the result of too much moisture in a basement, and that’s really bad for your health.

    Now, regarding the adhesive, yes, you need to remove it. You can find an adhesive softener in some hardware or flooring stores, though they may be environmentally harmful. Chipping away at it is a possibility, though not lots of fun.

    My favorite flooring for many uses, especially play rooms, is linoleum. It’s environmentally friendly, durable, and comes in a rainbow of colors. Just be sure to use an environmentally friendly glue so you don’t damage your indoor air quality. I have found Bostik’s Best to be a great glue for this project.

  118. I am looking for flooring for my walkout cement basement. I just pulled up the carpeting that was down. I am thinking about rubber flooring tiles. Can you tell me about that? Do I have to glue them to the cement?
    I am concerned about mold/mildew.

  119. Hello, I have existing linoleum floor titles that are glued directly to the concrete in my basement. They are glued in very well and would be very difficult to remove. Overall the basement seems dry and level. The floor does sweat if it gets very humid, however, if I run a dehumidifer it is ok and no problem. What are my best options to upgrade the floor. Should I just lay down a vapor barrier over the existing linoleum, then install a floating laminate floor?

  120. Diane,
    I have an article Rubber Flooring that I wrote on Rubber Floors/Tiles! I will recap for you the pros I outline in my article.
    * Environmentally friendly
    * Shock and sound resistant
    * Resists most staining and wear*
    Feel free to head on over and check out the article as it does address your concern about mold/mildew.

  121. Justin,
    I would say Justin you have a pretty good grasp on the situation!I do have information on moisture proofing right here on my site, just click here Moisture Proofing Resource .
    I also recommend checking out my other articles here on FlooringLady. You can use the search bar on the right hand side near the top to research differing flooring choices and how they respond to moisture!

  122. I want to rip up my carpeting in the basement room. The room is used for many purposes—an extra bedroom when we have guests, computer, TV. ( We also have three cats so the carpeting was not a good idea.) I need something that I can keep clean and odor-free. The basement is dry.
    Can you help me?

  123. We purchased an older home that had tile on the downstairs floor – walk in concrete floor, but it is not a basement. We took the tile up and the glue and put down new tiles (self sticking) They came up and they were glued back down. The floor (tiles) will not stay down, the entire floor is lifting up. We tried a dehumidifier and that works, but we need to do something to keep these tiles down (preferably without replacing the whole floor). The house is on the market and this is going to deter buyers. Is there something that we can put over top of the tiles or do you have any suggestions?

  124. Patti,
    If there is moisture getting under the tiles making them pull up, then the floor underneath probably needs to be resealed. The self stick tiles are going to pull up as long as there is a moisture issue.

  125. I have a basement room that I am making into a bedroom. At one time there was an area that was getting wet when it rained. We have had the leak fixed, so I want to remove the old smelly carpet and put another easy keep product. There are asbestos tiles on concrete under the carpet,(1968 house) but there was some new piping put in so contractors opened part of the floor thus leaving some rough concrete and broken tile (still adhered to concrete) will I have to cover and smooth over the area before laying anything overtop. Also what flooring would you recommend?

  126. PS,
    If you plan to lay a tile over the top, then yes, it should be a smooth surface. If you are laying carpet, then the padding should cover any rough spots well.
    However, my concern would be the broken the asbestos tiles. Once those tiles are broken or cracked they present a health concern.
    An article that may be good to read is Removing Asbestos Vinyl Flooring. You may also want to contact a professional and ask questions about covering the asbestos tiles once they are damaged.

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