| When you take into consideration the expense of owning it, installing stone flooring yourself may just seem like the right course of action to take. The problem is, though, that you need the knowledge to back up the willpower.It is essential that you invest the time and the money in learning how to do it as well as having the right tools. Failure to install best stone flooring, proper can and will lead to the stone cracking, becoming loose, or becoming unevenly, which can cause someone to fall and be hurt. |
What’s Under There?
Installing stone flooring happens in the same way, whether you are installing slate or marble flooring, or virtually any other type of stone. The pieces of the best stone flooring are either laid in their natural form or are made from real stone that is suspended in a polymer binder to create a tile like an option. In all of these cases, the flooring needs to be laid carefully and accurately. If it is not supported or it is uneven, the finished product will not be that of high quality. And, you are increasing the risks of it breaking or chipping under pressure. No matter how hard the stone is, it can crack if it is laid improperly.
It is essential that you invest the time and the money in learning how to do it as well as having the right tools. Failure to install stone flooring properly can and will lead to the stone cracking, becoming loose, or becoming uneven which can cause someone to fall and become hurt.
What’s Under There?
Installing stone flooring happens in the same way, whether you are installing slate or marble flooring, or virtually any other type of stone. The pieces of stone are either laid in their natural form or are made from real stone that is suspended in a polymer binder to create a tile like option. In all of these cases, the flooring needs to be laid carefully and accurately. If it is not supported or it is uneven, the finished product will not be that of high quality. And, you are increasing the risks of it breaking or chipping under pressure. No matter how hard the stone is, it can crack if it is laid improperly.
It is important to see what is under your foot when choosing stone flooring for your home. First, you need to take into consideration the weight of the stone. The heavier the stone, the more pressure you are placing on the structure of the building. In some cases, the weight may be too much. If you are concerned about this, it is wise to consult with a professional before making a selection. Often, a thinner layer of the stone tile can be used in place of the heavier options.
Secondly, when installing stone flooring, you need to think about what is directly below it. Because they are heavy and rigid, they need a very strong support system to keep them in place. The base product can not move or shift. Those applying stone on a wood subfloor need to reinforce it with another layer of plywood in some cases. Then a layer of tar paper is laid, followed by a wire mesh. A layer of mortar is then used (although a cement backer board can be used as well) to provide even more support. Then adhesive (the proper quality of course) is used to put the tiles in place.
If installation is to be over a concrete floor, you can use the same such methods or you can use a thin set adhesive.
In most professional projects, the installer is likely to use mortar bed. Also important to note is that in this case, the 3/4″ plywood subfloor is the thinnest option.
A cement backer is a good option to use if you are looking for an easy to install solution. The subfloor needs to be 5/8″ thick here. You will apply the cement backer board to the subfloor with an adhesive and screws. Your stone is then applied to the backer with thin set adhesive.
In virtually every type of stone flooring you will want to sealants over the top of the flooring. When they are applied before the grouting application, it becomes easier for you to keep the grout out of the cracks and grooves of the actual stone. Once the proper sealants are used, you can then grout the flooring.
There are many types of flooring from epoxy stone flooring to slate, marble, and flagstone. The proper installation of stone flooring will allow for your floor to last as long as possible. In most cases, properly installing stone flooring will allow it to last a lifetime.
Hi Cindy,
What you’ll need is a transition strip where the bathroom and hallway flooring meet. As far as an getting them both to be the same height — isn’t going to happen.
Hello,
I am going to be installing flag stone at the front entrance of the inside of my house, a section that is about 6’ by 6’. The rest of the room has ¾” thick walnut flooring that I have installed about two months ago. I have planed to have a smooth transition between the stone and wood, and to achieve this I have installed the appropriate thickness of underlayment beneath the hardwood. My question to you is: can I but the stone directly against the hardwood, or do I need to leave a gap to allow for wood expansion and contraction? If a gap is require, what are my options?
Thank you
Gary
Hi Gary,
It should be ok to butt them up, and I say this based on the assumption that this area will be pretty much climate controlled and that the walnut flooring is nailed. Most people prefer to use a transition strip as it protects the edges where the two different flooring types meet. You’re most likely going to have an issue with dirt/dust getting trapped where the two floors meet without a t-strip no matter how close you can get the two flooring types.
Hello, I’m thinking of putting irregular flagstone in an addittion. I used TJI’s 14 7/8 1′ on center and 3/4″ MDF T&G for flooring. I’m going to have the stone cut between 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch. It’s about 900sq. total. Would it be better to use a cement backer board like hardybacker or 30lb felt and wire mesh.
Thanks Matt
Hi Matt,
It sounds like you did a very good job on making a very stable base. It sounds like it would be strong enough that you can use hardybacker under it rather than having to use the felt/wire mesh.
I am going to lay a 900 sq ft. living room floor (new construction) of natural stone 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ thick stones. The base is a solid concrete slab. would you lay the stone directly on the slab, and what mortar mix is appropriate and how thick. I have done lots of rock laying but no flagstone before. Thanks, Wayne
Hi Wayne,
You’d want at least a medium set mortar for laying it. I would recommend using natural stone that is more uniform in thickness though.
Hello. I am planning to install natural stone on a 8’h x 7’w painted brick fireplace wall. What would be the process since the brick is painted?
~Mike
Hi Mike,
For best adhesion, I would recommend stripping the paint off of the brick.
Hi, this is going to sound awful, but have a section of flagstone floor that really is past its best, so wish to lift, use the better pieces elsewhere in the house, but concrete the section that is coming up and then tile. The existing base is just sand. Any ideas what I should do with this area with regards damp proofing this area? Any info appreciated Jackie
Hello,
I am remodelling a master bath and plan on installing, limestone natural tile. When remodelling I had to remove an old ceramic floor which was installed with a wire mesh and mortar. I do not wish to reinstall the mesh system but want to use a cementboard backer instead. My subfloor is in good condition and I have replaced sections where water damage was apparent.The sub floor is a minimum of 5/8″ thick. Would using a cement board be sufficient?
In addition, I am installing a focus wall of natural stone which comes in precut sections and is approxiamatley 4cm thick (I am in Canada). What type of adhesive would you use to apply this wall? (the sections are fairly heavy).
Hi Jackie,
Where in the house is this flooring? Where do you live? Are you tired of the flagstone or would a good refinish bring it back to life?
You can read about various moisture-proofing approaches at: https://theflooringlady.com/moisture_proofing/
Hi Jerry,
I don’t have experience with the wire mast and mortar, though I’ve seen it in older homes. I’d think the backerboard would be sufficient. That’s what I have in my bathroom and it’s holding well.
I don’t have experience hanging stone on wall surfaces. It seems to be something’s needed to strengthen the wall too.
hello, I’m building a house and the homeowner has specified crab orchard flagstone for the entire house inside and outside . The house is on a conventional floor system I’m not to worried about the inside of the house but very concerned about the balconies which are exposed to the elements I would like to use plywood for the subfloor but wonder how to accomplish the waterproofing of the subfloor.
Hi Freddy,
You do indeed need to put good weatherproofing down on the plywood. You could do a “blow down” asphalt-like layer before laying the flagstone on top, or you could use Bitchathane, or some other rubber membrane, as the layer between the plywood
and the flagstone.
It sounds lovely. I hope it works out for you.
Hello,
I am having a natural stone (Travertine) installed in the kitchen. Currently I have a “tile” look Linolium on the floor. Is it okay to lay the stone directly over the Linolium or should I have the Linolium removed first? The Linolium is directly on top of concrete. Will the Linolium hinder a proper adhesive seal if not removed or create a better water barrier if it remains and place the Travertine on top? FYI: The Travertine is a Tumble Travertine.
Thanks!
Ron,
You sure can lay it right over, IF you are positive the linoleum won’t lift, that it has been properly glued down to the concrete without gaps or air bubbles. You would still have to use a thin-set for the new tile so the travertine will adhere properly.
I have made a Flagstone Porch that I have mortered. I’m now looking for either clear epoxy or polyurethane to pour over it. Birmingham stumped.
KC,
I would recommend the water-based Diamond Coat Varathane Polyurethane to apply over it.
We own a mid century home with an original application of flagstone slate for an entry way. We have a couple of flagstone tiles that are loose (each tile is probably about 16″x8″ and mostly rectangular in shape). I plan on removing them for repair and reusing. What type of mortar should I use to reset as well as grout (and any other tricks I should know about)?
Thanks!
Greg